My dear travellers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new travelogue on the Mr.M blog. After exploring some of the most beautiful destinations across Central, Western and Southern Europe together, this time we’re heading north, to the land of hygge, design, regal elegance and timeless charm. Welcome to Denmark. There are cities that amaze you at first sight and cities that win you over slowly. Copenhagen belongs to the second group. I landed without high expectations, and I left with the feeling that I got to know a city that knows what it’s doing. This guide to Copenhagen was born from a few days of walking, seeing and staying at Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden which set the whole trip in a special tone.
Before starting today’s travelogue about Copenhagen, I want to express my special thanks to the United Nations World Tourism Organization – UN Tourism and Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden Hotel for supporting and promoting quality tourism around the world. Their dedication to connecting cultures and destinations is an inspiration to all of us who believe that travel enriches the soul.
The Danish capital is truly special and unique. It offers flat streets, low roofs, green towers and water at every corner. No one is rushing here, yet everything works. That’s why I wanted to write a text that can serve as a useful reminder for anyone planning a visit to Copenhagen. In the following, I will guide you through the history of the city, through the most important sights and through interesting details that you will remember only when you return home.
WHY HAS COPENHAGEN BECOME ONE OF EUROPE’S MOST POPULAR DESTINATIONS?
Copenhagen today has about one and a half million inhabitants in the wider metropolitan area. Despite this, it seems like a big town where everything can be explored on foot. That is the first thing that surprises a visitor from the south of Europe.
The city is popular for several reasons. The first is water: canals, harbors and lakes shape every walking route. The second is design, because for decades the Danes have built their reputation on simple, clean and durable solutions. The third reason is the way of life, which foreigners usually reduce to one word, hyge. This word means warmth, peace and pleasure in small things.
There is a fourth reason, perhaps the most important. Copenhagen is a city that has decided to belong to people, not cars. Wide bicycle lanes, pedestrian zones and benches by the water are not decorations. They are the result of decisions made decades ago.
For the passenger, this means a pleasant consequence. You won’t fight the crowds, you won’t look for a crossing and you won’t waste time in transport. Instead, you will walk, sit by the canal and watch the city come to life. This is precisely why many say that they liked Copenhagen more than they expected.
THE RISE OF COPENHAGEN: FROM FISHING PORT TO CAPITAL CITY
The story begins on a small island in the middle of the water. In 1167, Bishop Absalon built a fortress on Slotsholmen, an island that still bears the center of the Danish state. The Danes take that year as the official founding date of the city.
The settlement existed even before that. Fishermen and merchants came here for the calm harbor and rich herring catch. The first name was simply Havn, meaning port. Later, the city was named Købmannehavn, which translates as trading port, and over time it was shortened to København.
The settlement received city rights in 1254. The herring trade brought money, and money brought walls, churches and conflicts. The Hanseatic League repeatedly attacked the city, because German merchants did not like the competition in the Baltic.
Copenhagen became the capital in the full sense during the fifteenth century, when King Eric of Pomerania moved his residence here. Since then, everything important in Denmark has been happening in this city.
Today, Christianborg stands on the site of Absalon’s fortress. If you want to understand how the city grew, start right there. Below the modern palace lie the remains of the first castle, and a few steps away the streets that were created much later begin.
CHRISTIAN IV’S COPENHAGEN: THE FIRES THAT CHANGED THE CITY FOREVER
If one ruler deserves the title of builder of Copenhagen, it is Christian IV. He ruled from 1588 to 1648 and left behind more buildings than anyone after him.
The city owes the Rosenborg Castle, the Round Tower, the Kristianshavn district and the naval settlement Niebuder to him. The king wanted Copenhagen to become the economic and military center of the entire north. That is why he founded trading companies, built fortifications and expanded the city beyond the old walls.
The next century brought misfortunes. Large fires destroyed wooden houses, and the war with Britain at the beginning of the nineteenth century left additional scars. Each renovation changed the look of the streets, so today you see a mix of styles from several eras.
The most important fire broke out in the night between February 26 and 27, 1794. Then the Christianborg Palace burned down, and the royal family was left without a home. A solution was found in just a few days: the crown bought two noble palaces on Amalienborg Square.
That decision still stands. The Danish royal family has lived at Amalienborg for more than two centuries. That’s why one fire from the eighteenth century still determines where you’ll see the changing of the guard.
MANON LES SUITES GULDSMEDEN: A JUNGLE OASIS IN THE HEART OF COPENHAGEN
I chose the hotel carefully, because accommodation is never just a bed for me. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden is located at Gyldenløvesgade 19, right next to Copenhagen’s lakes. Strøget and Tivoli can be reached in ten minutes on foot.
It is a five-star hotel with eighty-seven apartments. It belongs to the Guldsmeden Hotels family group, which has been building its story on sustainability and organic products since 1999. The group’s symbol is a dragonfly, so you’ll find it on bed sheets, toothbrushes and front doors.
The heart of the hotel is the Junglefish indoor pool. When you enter the atrium, it’s hard to believe you’re in Denmark. Palm trees, creepers, terracotta pots and hanging fish lamps create the feel of a tropical backyard. On the roof there is a terrace with a sauna and a Chapung restaurant, overlooking the city’s lakes.
INSIDE MANON LES SUITES GULDSMEDEN: MY EXPERIENCE IN THE CLASSIC SUITE
I stayed in the room category better known as the Classic Suite and to tell you the truth, I would have stayed there much longer. The space is divided into a sleeping area, a sitting area and a small dining area with a round table.
The headboard is made of bamboo, the bedding is soft and cotton, and the pillows have an embroidered dragonfly sign. A Marshall speaker greeted me on the dresser, along with a Casa Chaleur scented diffuser and a box of tissues in recycled paper. A large abstract painting hangs on the wall, which gives character to the whole space.
The bathroom follows the same practicality. The white tiles, teak-framed mirror and stone sink look simple and expensive at the same time. Cosmetics carry the signature of I Love Eco Essentials, with body oil, lotion, hand cream and soap.
I was most impressed by the set of trinkets on the bed: a bamboo brush, toothbrush tablets, crystal deodorant, a comb and paper earplugs. Nothing is plastic, and nothing feels cheap. This is a detail that I will remember this hotel for. In the next blog post, you can expect a detailed review of Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden Hotel.
COPENHAGEN’S NYHAVN: THE ICONIC CANAL YOU CAN’T MISS
Nyhavn is the image that everyone takes home. Colorful facades, wooden ships and terraces full of people make the most recognizable sight of the city.
The canal was dug between 1670 and 1673, by order of King Christian the Fifth. It was dug by Swedish prisoners of war, and the purpose was practical: ships needed direct access to the market at Kongens Nytorv square. For centuries this was a working-class port with taverns, sailors and a bad reputation.
The oldest house is number nine and dates back to 1681. Commercial traffic stopped in 1967, and since 1977 the southern side of the canal belongs to museum ships.
Hans Christian Andersen lived here at three addresses. In house number 20, he published his first collection of fairy tales in 1835, among which Kresivo and The Princess of the Pea. He spent the longest period at number 67, from 1848 to 1865, and at number 18 he lived near the end of his life.
A tip from experience: come early in the morning. Around noon, the quay turns into a river of people, so a photo without crowds is almost impossible. In the morning, the light is softer, and the colors of the houses seem fuller.
STRØGET, COPENHAGEN: EXPLORING THE HISTORIC CITY CENTRE
Strøget is the pedestrian backbone of the city. The main stretch is about a kilometer and a hundred meters long, and connects the City Square with the Kongens Nytorv square.
It is interesting how it came about. In 1962, the city closed this street to cars, which seemed like a bold move at the time. The success was so great that Copenhagen continued on the same path and became a model for many European cities.
A walk on Strøget is not just about shopping. Along the way, you will pass through several squares, each with its own character. Amagertorv features the Stork Fountain from the nineteenth century and a view of the green tower of the Nicholas Church, which today serves as an exhibition space.
A little further on are Gamletorv and Nitorv, two old squares that look like one. There is also a city court with powerful pillars and an inscription that translates as: the country is built by law. That sentence comes from old Danish law and perfectly describes the country’s mentality.
If you deviate from the main route, you will receive a reward. The narrow streets around Højbro Plads and Kultorvet are full of small shops, flower shops and cafes. In Højbro Square stands the equestrian monument to Bishop Absalon, the man who started it all.
TOWN HALL SQUARE & TIVOLI: DISCOVERING ANOTHER SIDE OF COPENHAGEN
The western end of Strøget opens onto the City Square, known as Rådhuspladsen. This is the most lively place in the city and the best starting point for the first morning.
In the square stands the Dragon Fountain, with a bronze bull and a dragon in battle. Above it rises the building of the daily newspaper Politiken, one of the most recognizable addresses of the Danish press. This is where the fans gather, this is where the New Year is welcomed and this is where the pulse of the city can best be felt.
Across the square is Tivoli, a park that was opened in 1843. It is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world, founded by Georg Carstensen. The wooden toboggan train has been operating since 1915 and still welcomes passengers.
Tivoli is not just a park for children. Gardens, ponds, theater stages and restaurants make it a place where even adults go, especially in the evening. When thousands of bulbs are lit, the entire space acts as a stage.
The impact that this park has left is also interesting. Walt Disney visited Tivoli and, according to stories that Danes love to repeat, took the ideas for his park from there. Whether that’s true or not, the connection between play and beautiful landscaping here is obvious.
Entrance to the park and entrance to the rides are charged separately. If you just want to take a walk, the first one is quite enough for you.
COPENHAGEN’S CHRISTIANSBORG & SLOTSHOLMEN: THE HISTORIC HEART OF DENMARK
Christianborg is not just a palace. It is a building where the parliament, the prime minister and the supreme court work, which is rare in the world.
The palace stands on Slotsholmen, an island surrounded by canals. Below it lie the remains of Absalon’s fortress from 1167 and the later Copenhagen Castle. Parliament has been sitting here since 1928. The palace tower is the tallest in the city and is open to visitors free of charge. It’s worth the climb, because from above Copenhagen looks exactly as I remember it: low, green and full of towers.
The Palace Church is also located within the complex. The interior is bright, classic and almost ascetic, with white pillars and a dome in the form of a cassette. After the splendor of other European churches, this silence pleasantly surprises.
There are several important addresses around the palace. The Torvaldsen Museum houses the works of Denmark’s most famous sculptor, while the Royal Library has its own contemporary wing known as the Black Diamond. The Royal Library Garden is a peaceful place to take a break, and many tourists pass by without knowing it exists.
From here it is only a few steps to Gamel Strand. Boats for canal tours board here, and that ride is still the best introduction to the city.
KONGENS NYTORV & THE ROYAL THEATRE: THE ELEGANT HEART OF COPENHAGEN
Kongens Nytorv is the largest square in the old town. It was created in the seventeenth century, when King Christian V expanded the city beyond the medieval walls.
In the middle stands his equestrian monument, surrounded by flower beds and a row of trees. In summer, this is a place to sit, and in winter, an ice rink is set up here.
On the south side of the square rises the Royal Danish Theatre, a building from 1874 with a dome and sculptures on top. The Danish acting and ballet tradition has long been associated with this address.
The square is also a traffic hub. The metro line from the airport ends right here, so many travelers make their first contact with the city at this place. From here you head to Nyhavn, to Strøget or to the Royal Quarter.
AMALIENBORG, COPENHAGEN: INSIDE THE HOME OF THE DANISH ROYAL FAMILY
Amalienborg is not one palace, but four almost identical buildings around an octagonal square. They were built by noblemen between 1750 and 1760, according to the plans of the court architect Nikolaj Eigtved.
The entire neighborhood is called Frederiksstaden and was created in honor of the three hundred years of rule of the House of Oldenburg. In the center of the square stands the equestrian monument to King Frederick the Fifth, the work of the French sculptor Jacques Sali.
The royal family moved in in 1794, after the fire at Kristianborg. Since then, the palaces bear the names of kings: Christian the Seventh, Christian the Eighth, Frederick the Eighth and Christian the IX.
The changing of the guard takes place every day at noon. The ceremony is short and without exaggeration, which is very Danish. The soldiers in blue uniforms and fur caps look serious, but the audience is standing only a few meters away.
The square has another value, which is the urban play of views. On one side, the axis leads to the dome of the Marble Church, and on the other to the port and the Opera House. Stand right in the middle and you’ll see how the whole city lines up.
COPENHAGEN: FREDERIK’S CHURCH AND THE DOME THAT DEFINES THE SKYLINE
The marble church is officially called Frederick’s Church. It is located a few tens of meters from Amalienborg and closes the view from the western side of the square.
The foundation stone was laid in 1749, but construction was difficult. The money ran out, so the huge unfinished building stood as a ruin in the middle of the city for more than a century. The solution came only when the banker Ce Ef Tietgen bought the project and financed the completion of the works.
The final appearance was given by the architect Ferdinand Meldal, and the church was opened on August 19, 1894. Instead of expensive Norwegian marble, limestone was used, so the name of the church today speaks more about the intention than about the material.
The dome has a span of thirty-one meters and is the largest church dome in Scandinavia. It rests on twelve pillars, and inside it seems incredibly light.
The interior impressed me more than the exterior. Blue and gold paintings, mosaics, a magnificent organ and a marble altar make an impression that is rarely seen in the north. The entrance is free, and in the summer there is also the possibility of climbing up to the dome.
Above the entrance there is a golden inscription, which in translation means: the word of the Lord remains forever. Statues of famous Danish theologians and thinkers, among them Serene Kierkegaard, are placed around the church.
KASTELLET, THE MILL & ST. ALBAN’S CHURCH: A HISTORIC CORNER OF COPENHAGEN
Castellet is one of the best-preserved star-shaped fortifications in Northern Europe. It was built between 1662 and 1665, by order of King Frederick the Third and according to the plans of the Dutch engineer Henrik Ruse.
The fortress has five bastions, earth ramparts and canals filled with water. Today it is a public park, but it still belongs to the military. The red barracks are lined up along the cobblestone street, and the Danish flag flies above them.
In the middle of the complex stands the yellow garrison church from 1704. On the side is a wooden windmill, one of the most beautiful sights in the city. An old cannon stands in front of him, so the joke is self-imposed: a mill and a cannon barrel in the same photo.
Just outside the ramparts stands St. Alban’s Church, the only Anglican church in Denmark. Its pointed tower and cobblestone walls look as if they were transported from the English countryside.
I recommend a tour around the ramparts. The walk lasts about half an hour, and along the way you can see views of the harbor, ponds with water lilies and swans. This was my most peaceful hour in the city.
THE GEFION FOUNTAIN, COPENHAGEN: THE LEGEND BEHIND THE BIRTH OF ZEALAND
On the edge of Castellet, in Churchill Park, stands the largest monument in the city. The Gefion Fountain depicts a powerful goddess driving four oxen over rocks.
The legend is worth remembering. The goddess Gefion received from the Swedish king as much land as she could plow in one night. She turned her sons into oxen and plowed the island of Zealand, on which Copenhagen still lies today.
Sculptor Anders Bundgaard made the figures between 1897 and 1899. The pools and decorations were finished later, and the fountain was put into operation for the first time on July 14, 1908. The gift came from the Carlsberg Brewery Foundation.
The water here is not quiet. Cascades fall noisily, and in summer, visitors from all over the world gather around the fountain. Not far from there stands a monument to King Frederick IX, facing the harbor he loved.
COPENHAGEN: THE LITTLE MERMAID, THE CITY’S MOST HUMBLE STAR
The Little Mermaid is the most photographed sculpture in Denmark and at the same time the biggest disappointment for many visitors. She is only one meter and twenty-five centimeters tall and weighs about one hundred and seventy-five kilograms.
They discovered it on August 23, 1913. Sculptor Edvard Eriksen made it in bronze, and it was donated to the city by brewer Karl Jacobsen. He was led to this idea by a ballet based on Andersen’s fairy tale from 1837.
The story of the model is interesting. Ballerina Ellen Price refused to pose without clothes, so the body of the sculpture was modeled by the sculptor’s wife Elina.
Sirena has been through a lot. Her head was stolen, her hand was cut off, she was repeatedly covered with paint. Each time they returned it to the same stone, as if the city was stubbornly clinging to its symbol.
My advice is simple. You don’t come here just for the sculpture, but for the walk that leads to it. The journey via Amalienborg, Gefion Fountain and Castellet takes about half an hour and is more beautiful than the destination itself.
COPENHAGEN: ROSENBORG CASTLE AND THE KING’S GARDEN
Rosenborg looks exactly how you imagine a fairytale castle. Towers with copper roofs, red brick and a moat create an image that seems unreal in the middle of the city.
It was built by Christian IV between 1606 and 1633, in the style of the Dutch Renaissance, as a summer residence. Today, the castle serves as a museum with twenty-four rooms arranged chronologically.
The cellar holds what many come for: Denmark’s crown jewels. There is also Christian IV’s crown and bejeweled sword, along with armor and silverware.
Surrounding the castle is the Royal Garden, the oldest park in the city. In summer it is full of people lying on the grass, reading or having lunch outdoors. A special part is occupied by a rose garden with low boxwood, lavender and a monument to Queen Carolina Amalia.
This park showed me something important about the Danes. They use the public space as an extension of their apartment, without fences and without rules that are visible to everyone. This is why the city seems warmer than the climate suggests.
COPENHAGEN: THE BEST MUSEUMS, PARKS & GARDENS TO VISIT
If you love art, the State Museum of Art is a must-see. The building was designed by Wilhelm Dalerup, and was opened in 1896. The collection covers seven centuries, from old masters to contemporary works.
Not far from there is the Natural History Museum of Denmark. There is a huge meteorite in the yard, which is a detail that children remember more than any showcase.
The botanical garden is my discovery of this trip. It covers ten hectares, and its heart is the glass Palma house from the nineteenth century. When you look at it over the water lily pond, you get one of the most beautiful photos in the city.
These three places lie next to each other, in an area that the Danes call park museums. One ticket covers several institutions, so it’s easy to fill up the whole day.
At the end of the day, I recommend Israel Square. On weekends, there is a flea market, and people sell porcelain, books and old clothes. Nothing obligates you to buy, but the atmosphere is worth it.
COPENHAGEN: HARBOUR, OPERA & THE NEW FACE OF THE CITY
Copenhagen has turned to its port in recent decades. The old docks have been turned into residential areas, and the industrial shores into promenades.
The most impressive building is the Opera House on Holmen Island. It was opened on January 15, 2005, according to the project of architect Henning Larsen. The entire facility was a gift from the Möller family foundation to the Danish state.
The building has fourteen floors, five of which are below the water level. The flat roof hangs over the glass facade like a huge plank, and the ceiling of the main hall is covered with gold leaf.
On the other side of the water, a new neighborhood is rising with buildings in the shape of stepped triangles. The contrast is strong, but not unpleasant. The Danes know how to combine old brick and new concrete without quarreling between them.
The best way to see it all is by boat. The tour lasts about an hour and goes under low bridges, past Christianshavn and the winding tower of the Church of Our Saviour.
CHRISTIANSHAVN: CANALS, COLOURFUL HOUSES & COPENHAGEN FROM THE WATER
Across the bridge from the old town lies Kristianshavn. This quarter was built by Christian the Fourth at the beginning of the seventeenth century, as part of the new fortifications and as a commercial quarter.
The settlement was created on artificial islands, so the channels here have a different rhythm. There are low houses, old warehouses and wooden ships along the water, and there are more bicycles than cars.
The most recognizable is the tower of the Church of Our Saviour, with a spiral staircase going up from the outside. The climb is not for those afraid of heights, but the view makes up for the effort.
In the same quarter is Christianija, a self-proclaimed community founded in the seventies of the last century. For some it is a free commune, for others it is a disputed point on the map. In any case, the story is part of the modern history of the city.
I remember Kristianshavn because of the silence. A few hundred meters from the biggest crowds, you get a neighborhood where people sit on the edge of the quay and simply look at the water.
A TASTE OF COPENHAGEN: WHAT TO EAT IN THE DANISH CAPITAL
Danish cuisine has long been considered simple. In recent decades, that has changed, as the Nordic approach to food has gained a serious name in the world.
The basis is still smerbred, an open sandwich on rye bread. It goes with herring, smoked salmon, roast beef or scrambled eggs. The portion looks modest, but it fills you up more than you expect.
Street food has its champion, and that is the Danish hot dog in a bun. Hot dog kiosks have been part of the cityscape for decades and the price is one of the few that doesn’t hurt here.
For the sweet part of the day, I recommend cinnamon buns. The Danish baking tradition is serious, and the smells from the shops in the morning do the job better than any advertisement.
Coffee is a separate story. Danes drink a lot of coffee and take it seriously, so even a small bar usually offers a well-brewed brew.
Breakfast at the hotel was my favorite meal. Organic foods, homemade bread, cheeses and fresh fruit show what it looks like when someone doesn’t skimp on the start of the day.
COPENHAGEN BY BIKE: EXPLORING THE CITY ON TWO WHEELS
A bicycle in Copenhagen is not a hobby, but a means of transport. The lanes are wide, separated from the roadway and have their own traffic lights.
On the first day I made the mistake of standing on the bike lane to take a photo. The bell quickly reminded me of the rules. No one got mad, but I learned my lesson.
Renting a wheel is easy and well worth it if you are staying for more than two days. The city is flat, so there are no climbs to discourage you.
If you still stick to walking, count on about fifteen thousand steps a day. Bring comfortable shoes, because the cobblestones are beautiful to the eye, but hard on the feet.
COPENHAGEN: PRACTICAL TIPS FOR A PERFECT CITY BREAK
The airport is only eight kilometers from the center. Metro line two runs to Kongens Nytorv square in about fifteen minutes, and the train reaches the main station in just over ten.
Denmark uses its krona, not the euro. Cards are accepted everywhere, so you will practically never take cash out of your wallet.
Prices are high, no doubt about that. Restaurants, drinks and hotels cost significantly more than in southern and eastern Europe. However, there are ways to keep costs under control. Many sights are free, including the Castellet, the Little Mermaid, the Marble Church and the Christianborg Tower.
The best time to come is from May to September. Summer days are long, and temperatures rarely become uncomfortable. The wind is a constant companion, so a light jacket is useful even in July.
In three days you get to visit Nyhavn, Amalienborg, Kristianborg, Strøget, Kastelet and the harbour. The fourth day opens up space for Tivoli, Rosenborg and museums.
Reservations for popular restaurants are worth making in advance. The same applies to visiting Rosenborg during the summer, as the queues can be long.
COPENHAGEN STYLE GUIDE: WHAT TO WEAR IN THE DANISH CAPITAL
Danish style is restrained and practical. Neutral colors, clean lines and quality fabrics are seen at every step.
I brought a shearling leather jacket, a light knit t-shirt, straight pants, and comfortable sneakers. That combination withstood both the sun and the wind from the sea.
The tip is simple: choose layers. The weather changes several times a day, and rain can arrive without warning. An umbrella is less useful than a hood, because the wind rarely allows for a steady posture.
WHY I WILL COME BACK TO COPENHAGEN?
Copenhagen stuck in my head because of the balance. The city has a royal history but no royal pomp. It has contemporary architecture, but no coldness.
I remember the mornings the most. I left the hotel early, passed the lake and reached the canal before the world woke up. In those hours, the city belongs to those who walk.
This guide to Copenhagen does not cover everything. Christiania, the Louisiana Museum and the drive to Malmö remain for me, and that’s a good reason to return.
If you are planning a first trip, allow yourself at least three days. Copenhagen does not like to rush, and this is precisely its greatest value.
Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden proved to be the perfect starting point for such a trip. A hotel that keeps tropical warmth and northern simplicity under the same roof, a few steps from the city’s lakes and ten minutes’ walk from the old town. If you’re planning a trip to Copenhagen, feel free to put this address on Gyldenløvesgade at the top of your list.
This was my letter from Denmark. The next one is coming soon, and until then follow me on Instagram for more scenes from the capital that lives to the rhythm of bikes and water. I will definitely be back, because this city always finds a way to your heart!
With Love from Copenhagen,
Mr.M
This post is sponsored by the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism) and the Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden hotel, as well as other local partners who selflessly supported this project. This post is my personal and honest review of the destination experience.