My dear travellers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new hotel review on the Mr.M blog. After so many years and numerous trips around the world, I’ve learned to distinguish between hotels that I remember for the room and the quality of service, while on the other hand, there are those that you remember for a striking sight. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden certainly belongs to another group. As soon as you enter the building on the corner of Gyldenløvesgade and Nyropsgade, an inner courtyard opens up covered with plants falling from the floors, and below, at the bottom of that green well, a sparkling pool. Outside is the Danish capital, neat and restrained. Inside is something completely different, a jungle that you would never expect.
I spent a few days in this hotel and stayed in the Classic suite. I wanted to see if there was any real value behind the photos circulating on social media or if it was just a well thought out marketing campaign. The answer is more complex than I expected, so I tried to break it down in detail in this review. This review has been written to be useful to anyone planning a trip to Copenhagen, regardless of whether they will be staying at this amazing hotel right in the heart of the Danish capital.
MANON LES SUITES GOULDSMEDEN: HOW A COPENHAGEN HOTEL BECAME A GLOBAL ICON
The answer can be summed up in one word: swimming pool. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden has an indoor pool called Junglefish, located in an atrium that climbs through all floors of the hotel. Lush vegetation grows around it, pots and lamps hang, and Balinese decorative pillars give the whole scene a tropical character. The city’s official tourist guide describes the area as a piece of Bali in the heart of the Danish capital, and that is no exaggeration.
However, popularity does not rest on just one image. This exceptional hotel has five stars and has eighty-seven suites, which makes it one of the smaller, boutique buildings with a clear identity. In addition, the entire facility operates according to the rules of sustainable business that the chain has applied for decades, so the guest gets luxury without the usual extravagance.
The third reason is the atmosphere. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden doesn’t try to be a cold, marble hotel with lots of glass. Instead, the space is full of teak, textiles, ceramics and contemporary painting. The furniture is handmade, and the walls in the apartments are covered with dark slate, which brings weight and peace.
Finally, there is the rare house politics. The hotel only accepts guests over the age of fifteen. That’s why there is a silence in the pool and on the roof that you don’t usually find in city hotels. For travelers looking for peace after a day spent walking, this is perhaps the most important piece of information in the entire text.
THE STORY BEHIND MANON LES SUITES GOULDSMEDEN IN COPENHAGEN
The story begins far from Copenhagen. Sandra and Mark Weinert opened the first Hotel Guldsmeden in 1999 on Guldsmedgade in Aarhus, Denmark’s second largest city. From the beginning, the idea was unusual for the time: opulence based on simplicity, organic food and genuine hospitality, not on gilding.
Today, the family chain includes ten hotels in Copenhagen, Berlin, Bremen, Oslo and Aarhus, along with a villa for rent in Menton in the south of France and a luxury resort in Ubud, Bali. It is this Balinese connection that explains why the Danish hotel looks like a tropical garden.
Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden opened its doors in April 2017. The hotel was named after one of the twin daughters of the owner couple, which is the rule, not the exception, in this house. Each Danish hotel chain bears the name of a family member, so behind the business name is a very personal story.
It is also interesting to note that Mark Weinert is not only the owner. He is an architect by profession and is behind the design and decoration of all hotels in the chain. That is why the objects seem like the work of one hand, and not the result of the work of external studios that change from project to project.
The name of the chain hides another play on words. The Danish word “guldsmed” means both a goldsmith and a dragonfly, so the dragonfly became the sign of the house. You’ll see it on the room key, on the soaps, on the wooden welcome plaque and on the rooftop, where the restaurant is named Chapung. That word in the Balinese language means, quite expectedly, dragonfly.
MANON LES SUITES GOULDSMEDEN: LOCATION & HOW TO GET THERE
The address is Gyldenløvesgade 19, postal code 1600. The Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden hotel stands at the very edge of the old town, right next to the city lakes Sankt Jørgens Sø and Peblinge Sø. That position brings a double benefit. On one side you have a peaceful walk along the water, and on the other it’s only a ten minute walk to the main pedestrian street Strøget and to Tivoli.
The hotel is easily accessible without a car. The train from the airport to the Main Station takes about thirteen minutes, and from there it is a fifteen-minute walk. Another possibility is the metro line M2 to Nørreport station, then a ten minute walk. The entire journey from the plane to the reception rarely takes more than half an hour.
Westerport station is a seven-minute walk away, and bus stops are nearby. Copenhagen is a city of bicycles after all, so it’s worth knowing that the chain offers wheel rentals. The drive along the lake to the Nørrebro district takes a few minutes and is the nicest possible introduction to the city.
The hotel’s surroundings deserve special attention. Nansensgade offers small wine bars and designer shops. The Ørstedsparken park, laid out on the remains of the former city walls and officially opened on October 27, 1879, is just around the corner. Its elongated lake is actually a part of an old defensive moat, so a walk through the park also has a historical dimension.
A few minutes away, the Torvehallerne market awaits by Nørreport station. This covered market made of glass and steel was opened in September 2011 and gathers over sixty sellers. For breakfast, coffee or to buy cheese and smoked fish, it is the best address in the wider center.
MANON LES SUITES GOULDSMEDEN: THE ENTRANCE, WHERE THE JUNGLE BEGINS
The building of the Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden hotel does not stand out from the street. The black facade is overgrown with ivy, and above the glass door there is a board with a fairy horse and five wooden stars. That detail told me a lot right away. The category is the highest possible, but is communicated in hand-cut stars rather than gold letters.
The ground floor continues the same tone. Instead of a classic lobby with a marble counter, the guest is greeted by a low lounge with saffron, raspberry and turquoise cushions. Above them hangs a large canvas with figures, and between the seats stand small tables carved from a single piece of wood.
The reception is small and deliberately inconspicuous. Check-in takes a short time, without papers scattered around the counter, and the staff immediately explains where everything is. Since the contents are spread over different floors, that short introduction really helps. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden clearly shows the intention here: the guest should sit down, not just walk by.
THE JUNGLEFISH POOL: THE TROPICAL HEART OF COPENHAGEN
The pool is located in a sheltered atrium around which the apartments are arranged. The water is warm, the light is dim, and greenery is falling from every fence. In the evening, candles and lanterns are lit, so the space takes on an almost theatrical character. I immediately understood why this shot was shared so much on social networks.
For guests of the Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden hotel, access is included in the price of their stay, which is no small thing. The pool is open every day from eight in the morning to ten in the evening. In the afternoon, between 16:00 and 18:00, the music is turned on and the bar is open, so the atmosphere changes and becomes more lively. If you are looking for complete silence, come before noon.
There is also the possibility of a daily ticket for visitors who are not staying at the hotel. It includes four hours of stay in the pool and lounge, use of the sauna and steam bath, as well as a bag with kimono, slippers and towels. The price is 995 Danish kroner per person, which includes a voucher for food and drink or breakfast. For all those who have stayed somewhere else and want to see this area, this is the only way.
I sincerely advise you to visit the pool at least twice, in the morning and in the evening. The scene is completely different. During the day, northern light comes through the glass and the plants look fresher. At night, everything sinks into a warm shadow, and the water becomes the only source of light in the space. This is exactly where Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden shows what sets it apart from other five-star addresses in the city.
WHY “JUNGLEFISH”? THE STORY BEHIND MANON LES SUITES’ ICONIC POOL
The name is not a marketing gimmick. Through the atrium, on long chains, hangs a whole school of fish made of ceramics and woven material. In the evening, they are lit from the inside, so they act like lanterns floating through the greenery. From above, from the gallery of the upper floors, the scene resembles an upside-down aquarium.
White pavilions with curtains and low beds are placed next to the water itself. Between them stand trees in pink flowers, which give color to the whole space. Above the pool hangs a large metal basket that serves as a lamp.
All this together explains why this part of the Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden hotel is so photographed. It is about a carefully composed atmosphere, but again an unreal scene that is really used every day. Guests swim, read and rest there in the afternoon, which I myself did two days in a row.
MANON LES SUITES GOULDSMEDEN: ROOFTOP TERRACE, SAUNA & GYM
On the sixth floor there is a relaxation area that combines Balinese warmth and Nordic simplicity. There is a sauna, a steam bath with essential oils and a cabin with cold water from a wooden bucket. After that, you go out to the open part of the terrace, where you can sit with a drink and look at the rooftops of the city.
Working hours follow the swimming pool, so from eight to twenty-two hours. It’s worth checking with reception if the terrace is occupied for a private event, as this occasionally happens. The view from the sixth floor extends to the lake and the towers of the old town, so the time before sunset is the best time to visit.
The seating arrangement is unusual. Instead of rows of deckchairs, the terrace is filled with wide wooden steps turned into benches, covered with pillows with tropical and ethnic patterns. One sits on them as if on a tribune facing the sky. The afternoon sun stays there the longest, so it is the most pleasant part of the roof before evening falls.
The hotel also has a gym called Jungle Gym. It is open twenty-four hours a day and is free for guests. The space is not huge, but it is equipped enough to maintain a routine during the trip. I preferred a walk around the lake, which takes about as long as a solid workout.
One note is important here. The sauna and steam room are located on the roof, so quite far from the pool on the ground floor. Some guests cite this as a disadvantage, as it involves changing clothes and taking an elevator. It didn’t bother me, but it’s fair that the information stands, especially if you plan to alternate between sauna and cold water.
CHAPUNG RESTAURANT AT MANON LES SUITES: A BREAKFAST WORTH WAKING UP FOR
The Chapung rooftop restaurant is part of the same sixth floor and represents the gastronomic heart of the house. The menu is conceived as a journey, with dishes taken from different cuisines of the world. The food is organic and has a fair trade label, which is the rule without exception in this chain.
OPENING HOURS & PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Breakfast is served every day from seven to eleven. Lunch lasts from twelve thirty to sixteen thirty, and dinner from seven thirty in the afternoon to ten in the evening, with the last order at nine forty five. The bar is open longer, until midnight during the work week. It is wise to reserve a table in advance, because the restaurant also attracts guests from the city.
Underneath the hotel, on level minus one, lies the cocktail bar Libelulle. I was expecting a dark and quiet corner, but I got something completely different. Above the bar stands a gilded figure with outspread stained glass wings, a clear nod to the dragonfly from the house sign. A row of Tiffany-style lamps hang from the ceiling, while the counter glows with a greenish glow.
The bar is only open on weekend evenings, so many guests never see it. The hotel also offers a combination of cocktails in the bar and dinner in the restaurant, which easily fits into one evening. The opening hours change from time to time, so check them when you check in.
MANON LES SUITES: AN ORGANIC BREAKFAST TO REMEMBER
Breakfast costs 325 kroner per person and is not included in all prices, so pay attention when booking. On the table there are hot and cold dishes, freshly baked bread, croissants, eggs prepared in two ways, smoked fish from the local catch, cheeses, hams and seasonal vegetables. Homemade yogurts with a mixture of black bread, seeds, walnuts and honey leave a special impression.
It is interesting that the chain applies a rule according to which groceries are not delivered by plane. Therefore, there are no exotic fruits out of season on the plate, but there are extremely fresh ingredients from the surrounding area. If you have special dietary needs, the kitchen prepares gluten-free, lactose-free and plant-based dishes. It is enough to ask for it.
MANON LES SUITES GULDSMEDEN: MY STAY IN THE CLASSIC SUITE
I stayed in the Classic Suite category, which in this hotel means an apartment of approximately forty square meters. The space is divided into a sleeping area, a living area with seating and a small dining area. This division is a key difference compared to ordinary hotel rooms, as it allows you to work, eat and rest in separate zones.
THE CLASSIC SUITE: SPACE, LAYOUT & DESIGN
A four-poster bed stands in the center of the sleeping area. The construction is made of solid teak, and light white curtains can be pulled up to create a room within a room. Above the headboard is a bamboo covering that brings in warmth and muffles sound. The bedding is comfortable, and the pillows are chosen from a special list, which is rarely offered by any hotel.
The living area is equipped with a leather sofa, a low table made of one piece of wood and large-format contemporary paintings. On the chest of drawers there is a Marshall speaker and a diffuser with the scent of a house called Casa Chaleur. The walls covered with dark slate make a strong contrast with the white surfaces and the wood.
The suite also has a small kitchen area with a fridge and coffee and tea making facilities. Don’t expect a real kitchen, but for a longer stay it’s more than enough. The floors are made of wide wooden boards, the windows have wooden shutters, and the air conditioning works quietly.
THE CLASSIC SUITE: BATHROOM, TOILETRIES & LITTLE LUXURIES
The bathroom follows the same effortless minimalistic energy. The walls are covered with white tiles with beveled edges, the sink is carved from stone, and the cabinet below it is made of teak. The shower is separated by glass and has a wide head with an abundant jet. Next to the mirror is an additional, magnifying mirror, practical for shaving.
Cosmetics come from the chain’s own brand, I Love Eco Essentials, with labels of organic and natural ingredients. On the shelf in the shower are body gel, shampoo and conditioner in large, refillable bottles. By the sink are body oil, milk, hand cream and soap. All in cardboard packaging, without plastic that gets thrown away after a day.
A set of trinkets is hidden in the drawer of the wooden ladder, which also serves as a towel rack. There is a bamboo toothbrush, toothpaste, comb, ear sticks, crystal deodorant and ear plugs in a cardboard box. It seems simple, but it’s actually thought through.
MANON LES SUITES GULDSMEDEN: SMALL DETAILS, LASTING IMPRESSIONS
A wooden plaque with an engraved welcome letter, signed by the hotel manager, greeted me on the table. The gesture is warm and, more importantly, it feels sincere. A pen and a pad of recycled paper stood next to him.
Magazines were laid out on a low table, among them the chain’s own edition. Flipping through that magazine told me more about the philosophy of the house than any prospectus. The apartment also has an antique-looking telephone, which in this environment is more of an object than a device.
Dragonflies appear where you least expect them. It is embroidered on the pillows in three sizes, in a tone only slightly darker than the fabric itself. The sign of the house repeats itself throughout the entire stay, and never shouts.
What I remember most is the silence. Despite the fact that the hotel is located on a busy boulevard, the apartment does not hear traffic. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden solved that part without fanfare, and it is precisely by such things that the seriousness of a hotel is measured.
MANON LES SUITES GOULDSMEDEN: LUXURY WITH SUSTAINABILITY IN EVERY DETAIL
Since its establishment in 1999, Guldsmeden has built its business around ecological principles. The hotel has Green Globe and Green Key certificates, as well as the Danish Golden Circle for organic food. That sign is awarded to establishments where between ninety and one hundred percent of food and drinks are of organic origin, and the chain states that it is currently around ninety-eight percent.
The list does not end there. Bedding and mattresses bear the Prolana label, cosmetics are Ecocert certified at home, and coffee, tea and cocoa come from fair trade. The chain has been a member of the Danish GoGreen network since 2010 and publishes annual reports on environmental impact.
In the suite, sustainability is not announced in large letters. It is simply visible. No plastic bottles, no individual packaging, no extra sheets of paper. You leave cardboard, glass and batteries on the table, and the staff sorts them further.
I especially liked the towel rule, which really works here. What you leave on the floor gets replaced, and what you hang up remains yours. Also, the hotel keeps the books and magazines left by the guests and returns them to the common areas. A small thing, but it speaks to the way of thinking.
WHAT I LOVED ABOUT MY STAY AT MANON LES SUITES GULDSMEDEN
The greatest value of Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden Hotel is precisely the atmosphere that others cannot easily copy. The pool, roof terrace and apartments form a whole, and the staff behaves relaxed and without stiff formality. In addition, the size of the apartment allows a stay of four or five days not to be tiring.
For some travelers, price is the deciding factor. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden operates in the highest price range of the Danish capital, and breakfast is usually paid for separately. My experience with the overall service at the hotel was exceptional and the breakfast was excellent, the price justifies the quality and whenever I return to Copenhagen I would choose one of the Guldsmeden hotels. Both because of their locations and because of the unusual experience they provide.
WHAT TO DO IN COPENHAGEN: THE EXPERIENCES YOU SHOULDN’T MISS
Copenhagen is a city that is best explored on foot and by bike. The distances are short and the flat terrain helps. Here’s what I would set aside for a first or second visit.
COPENHAGEN OLD TOWN: THE CLASSICS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS
Nyhavn is the most photographed stretch in the country. The canal was dug in the seventies of the seventeenth century, and the colorful houses along the shore were once warehouses and sailors’ inns. Hans Christian Andersen lived in several buildings on that street, which today are marked by plaques on the facades.
From there it’s a short walk to Kongens Nytorv and the Strøget pedestrian street, one of the longest in Europe. On the way, you pass the Round Tower, built in the time of King Christian IV, with a spiral ramp instead of stairs. Rosenborg Castle houses the crown jewels, and Christiansborg Castle is today the seat of the Danish Parliament.
On Strøget itself, it is worth stopping at Amagertorv square. There stands an old fountain with bronze storks, a favorite meeting place of Copenhageners, while the green tower of the Nikolaj church rises above the roofs. Today, that church is not used for worship, but hosts contemporary art. A few steps further down is a row of shops and cafes with gardens.
Amalienborg consists of four rococo palaces and is the residence of the royal family. The changing of the guard takes place at noon and lasts a short time, so come a little early. Right behind the palaces rises the Marble Church with a large dome, which can be visited from the inside.
COPENHAGEN: WATER, HISTORIC FORTRESSES & GREEN ESCAPES
The Little Mermaid has been standing on a rock near the coast since 1913. It is the work of the sculptor Edvard Eriksen, and it was commissioned by the industrialist Carl Jacobsen. The statue is smaller than visitors expect, but the surrounding walk justifies the trip.
Just next to it lies the Castellet, a star-shaped fortress with a windmill and rows of red military buildings. A walk along the ramparts takes half an hour and is one of the most beautiful breaks in the city. A botanical garden with a glass palm house from the nineteenth century is located not far from there.
A boat ride through the canals is the best way to see the city from a different angle. Departures are frequent, and the line passes by the Opera House and modern buildings on the coast. At the end of the day, Christianshavn’s waterfront offers a view of the city’s silhouette reflected in the water.
COPENHAGEN’S BEST NEIGHBOURHOODS TO EXPLORE
Nørrebro is a neighborhood that has regularly been on lists of the world’s most interesting city neighborhoods in recent years. There are small bakeries, record stores and the Assistens cemetery, which the locals use as a park. Vesterbro offers a different rhythm, with former slaughterhouses converted into restaurants and bars.
Tivoli deserves a special place. It was opened in 1843 and is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world. In the evening, when thousands of bulbs are lit, the park looks completely different than during the day. The ticket is bought in advance online, which avoids the line.
Finally, Torvehallerne is the right place for a break. There you eat a traditional open sandwich smørrebrød, drink excellent coffee and buy cheese to take home. The market is a ten-minute walk from the hotel.
COPENHAGEN TRAVEL TIPS: WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Check-in at the Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden hotel starts at 3:00 p.m., and check-out is until noon. The hotel accepts guests over the age of fifteen, so families with small children should consider other facilities of the same chain. Smokers are strictly prohibited and subject to a heavy fine, which is also stated in the reservation conditions.
It is worth thinking about the different suites categories. Poolside options have a direct view of the atrium, but are a bit louder in the afternoon when the bar is open. Suites with a terrace bring fresh air and a view of the city. The classic apartment where I stayed seems to me to be the best ratio of space and price.
Service in the suite works throughout the day, with an additional charge for delivery. The hotel also offers a personal advisor for planning the day, every day from 8 am to 6 pm, with prior notice. If you are traveling on business, there is also a meeting room for about sixty people.
The last tip is about planning. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden fills up early and quickly, especially during the summer and during major city events. Booking two to three months in advance brings a better price and a larger selection of suite categories.
IS MANON LES SUITES GOULDSMEDEN WORTH IT?
After all, my impression is clear. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden is not a hotel you choose just for the bed and the location. It is chosen for the experience that begins the moment the door closes behind you and the city is left outside. The swimming pool in the greenery, the roof terrace and the suite made of teak and slate form a whole that is memorable.
I would recommend it to travelers who appreciate peace, space and thoughtful design. I would also recommend it to those who want luxury not to conflict with a responsible attitude towards the environment. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a classic city hotel with a grand marble lobby, you won’t find it here.
Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden proved to be the perfect starting point for such a trip. A hotel that keeps tropical warmth and northern simplicity under the same roof, a few steps from the city’s lakes and ten minutes’ walk from the old town. If you’re planning a trip to Copenhagen, feel free to put this address on Gyldenløvesgade at the top of your list.
Copenhagen is a city that rewards patient visitors. Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden fits perfectly into that rhythm, as it itself seeks to slow down. It took me exactly one morning by the pool to figure it out.
With Love from Copenhagen,
Mr.M
This post is sponsored by the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism) and the Manon Les Suites Guldsmeden hotel, as well as other local partners who selflessly supported this project. This post is my personal and honest review of the destination experience.