{"id":17287,"date":"2026-01-06T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-01-06T06:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mrm-style.com\/en\/?p=17287"},"modified":"2026-01-06T21:46:37","modified_gmt":"2026-01-06T19:46:37","slug":"letters-from-japan-nara-and-the-sacred-deer-exploring-japans-ancient-capital","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mrm-style.com\/en\/letters-from-japan-nara-and-the-sacred-deer-exploring-japans-ancient-capital\/","title":{"rendered":"Letters from Japan: Nara and the Sacred Deer, Exploring Japan\u2019s Ancient Capital"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

My dear travellers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new series of travelogues on the Mr.M blog. There are places in the world that welcome you with the silence and spiritual peace of temples and history. Nara is just such a place. When I first set foot on the soil of this city, I felt that time flows differently here than in the rest of the world. The deer that freely roam the streets are not only a tourist attraction, but living witnesses of a tradition of more than thirteen centuries. In this travelogue, I take you through the ancient capital of Japan, where modern luxury hotels and restaurants meet the spirituality of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Before starting today’s travelogue about Nara, I would like to express my special gratitude to the United Nations World Tourism Organization \u2013 UN Tourism<\/a><\/strong> for supporting and promoting quality tourism around the world. Their dedication to connecting cultures and destinations is an inspiration to all of us who believe that travel enriches the soul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Japan is a country of contrast and harmony at the same time. Nowhere is this more evident than in Nara, where primeval forests and ancient temples sit within easy reach of modern hotels and restaurants. This trip was an opportunity to explore the roots of Japanese civilisation, to understand the connection between nature and spirituality that defines this culture, and to surrender to the peace that this city offers to anyone who approaches it with an open heart.<\/p>\n\n\n

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NARA: THE CRADLE OF JAPANESE CIVILIZATION<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nara was the capital of Japan from 710 to 784, before Kyoto took over that role. During that period, known as the Nara period, the foundations of Japanese statehood, culture and spirituality were laid. The city at that time was called Heijo-kyo and was modeled after the Chinese capital Chang’an. It was here that Buddhism became enthroned as the state religion, and many of the oldest and most important temples in Japan were built in that golden age.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, Nara is a quiet prefecture bordering Kyoto, only thirty minutes away by express train. However, what makes this city unique is the fact that as many as eight of its monuments have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1998. Todaiji Temple, Kasuga Taisha Shrine, Kofukuji Temple, Kasugayama Primeval Forest and several other notable sites make up the whole known as the Historical Monuments of Ancient Nara. Rarely anywhere in the world can you see so much wealth of architectural and spiritual heritage in one place.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The Nara period was a time of cultural and political transformation. Contacts with the civilizations of the Asian continent brought a wave of new ideas, artistic forms and religious teachings. Buddhism, which arrived from China and Korea, transformed Japanese society and left an indelible mark on architecture, art and philosophy. The temples built in that period were not only religious buildings but also centers of learning, medicine and culture. The monks taught the people how to build dykes against floods, how to cultivate the land and what medicines to use. Nara was a source of enlightenment in every sense of the word.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

HOLY MESSENGERS OF THE GODS: DEER FROM NARA<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nara is inseparable from its deer. More than 1,400 of these noble animals roam freely in the park and surrounding streets, and their presence is not accidental. According to Shinto legend, in 768 the deity Takemikadzuchi arrived on Mount Mikasa riding a white deer from Kashima Shrine in Ibaraki Prefecture to protect the newly built capital. From that moment on, deer were considered sacred messengers of the gods and enjoyed special protection.<\/p>\n\n\n

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This tradition of honoring the deer lasted for centuries. Until the end of the Edo period, i.e. until 1868, killing a deer in Nara was a crime punishable by death. After the Meiji restoration, deer lost their sacred status, but due to their deep cultural and historical significance, they were declared a national natural monument in 1957. Today, they are protected by the Foundation for the Protection of Deer in Nara, and in recent years their population has recorded record numbers, the survey from 2025 recorded 1465 individuals, which is the highest since the beginning of systematic monitoring in 1953.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Scientists from Fukushima University conducted genetic research that showed that deer from Nara Park are genetically unique. Their population separated from the ancestral group approximately fourteen hundred years ago, around the time of the founding of Kasuga Taisha Shrine. Thanks to centuries of protection, these deer have preserved rare ancestral genes that have disappeared in other sika deer populations in Japan. This genetic isolation makes them scientifically valuable, even though they are not a separate species.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Nara deer are known throughout Japan for their behavior, they have learned to bow before receiving a treat. Visitors can buy special crackers called shika senbei, made from wheat flour and rice bran, which are the only food safe for these animals. Interestingly, deer have learned to bow by imitating tourists, not the other way around. When you hand them a cracker, they’ll lower their heads in thanks, creating an unforgettable sight. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of crackers goes to the Deer Conservation Foundation, so every purchase contributes to the conservation of these extraordinary animals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Interaction with deer requires respect and caution. Although they are used to humans, these are wild animals that can react unpredictably, especially during the breeding season from September to November, when the males become territorial. Every fall, the traditional antler cutting ceremony is held, a ritual more than three hundred and forty years old dating back to the Edo period. Shinto priests and trained handlers carefully capture and dehorn the males, preventing injury during dominance battles. This ceremony is also a spectacle that attracts thousands of visitors.<\/p>\n\n\n

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NARA PARK: THE GREEN HEART OF THE ANCIENT CAPITAL<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nara Park was founded in 1880 and is one of the oldest public parks in Japan. It covers an area of \u200b\u200bapproximately five hundred hectares at the foot of Wakakusa Hill, and if we include the surrounding temple and shrine complexes, that area grows to an impressive six hundred and sixty hectares. The Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology marked it as one of the most beautiful natural places in the country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A walk in the park is an experience that engages all the senses. Pines, cherries, maples and Japanese cedars create a color palette that changes with the seasons. In the spring, the cherry blossoms transform the park into a sea of \u200b\u200bpink, while the autumn leaves of the maples bring the warmth of red and gold tones. Deer appear at every turn, calmly grazing the grass or approaching visitors in the hope of getting a cracker. The sound of the wind in the treetops, the chirping of birds and the occasional ringing of temple bells create a symphony of peace.<\/p>\n\n\n

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A special event that takes place several times a year is the shikayose, or deer calling. The tradition dates back to 1892, and the ceremony takes place on the Tobihino meadow within the Kasuga Taisha Shrine. Every morning, a member of the Deer Conservation Foundation plays the fifth movement of Beethoven’s Sixth Pastoral Symphony on the French horn. The sound of the horn attracts dozens of deer from the forest, which gather to eat the acorns scattered on the grass. The scene is poetic and incredibly beautiful, and participation is free for all visitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Japanese gardens near the park are also worthy of attention. Isuien Garden, the only real promenade garden in Nara, consists of two parts: the lower garden with ponds and the upper garden with hills and waterfalls. The design uses the borrowed landscape technique, where the mountains in the distance are visually integrated into the garden composition. Nearby is the Yoshikien Garden, free for foreign tourists, which offers three different areas: a pond garden, a tea ceremony garden, and a moss garden. Both gardens are the perfect place for a real break from the hustle and bustle of the city.<\/p>\n\n\n

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T\u014ddai-ji: TEMPLE OF THE GREAT BUDDHA<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

T\u014ddai-ji Temple is one of the most impressive architectural achievements of the ancient world. It was founded in 738 and officially opened in 752, when Nara was the capital of the empire. Emperor Shomu commissioned the construction of this temple after a series of natural disasters, smallpox epidemics and political turmoil, believing that the Buddha would bring peace and prosperity to the people. The construction lasted fifteen years and almost led to the bankruptcy of the state treasury.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The central building of the complex is Daibutsuden, known as the Great Buddha Hall. With dimensions of fifty-seven meters in width, fifty meters in length and forty-eight meters in height, this is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. The astonishing fact is that the current version, reconstructed in 1709, is actually only two-thirds the size of the original eighth-century building. The original temple was as much as eighty-eight meters wide and was flanked on both sides by ninety-meter-high pagodas, which were among the tallest structures of the ancient world, comparable only to the Egyptian pyramids.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Inside the hall is the Daibutsu, the world’s largest bronze Buddha statue cast in one piece. It represents Buddha Vairochana, the cosmic Buddha whose light of wisdom and compassion illuminates all beings. The height of the statue is almost fifteen meters, and the weight exceeds five hundred tons. The ears are two and a half meters long, the eyes are one meter wide, and the hair is depicted with nine hundred and sixty six bronze balls. Its casting required most of Japan’s bronze reserves, and gold for gilding was imported from all over the country. The eyes-opening ceremony, a traditional ritual to revive the statue, was held in 752 before ten thousand monks and four thousand dancers, with the presence of the entire imperial court and diplomatic envoys from China, India and Persia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The statue has suffered significant damage over the centuries. The head fell during an earthquake in 855, and the right hand was damaged in fires in 1180 and 1567. The current head dates from the reconstruction in 1692. Despite everything, the energy that this monumental figure emits leaves a deep impression on every visitor. One of the popular rituals in the temple is passing through an opening in a wooden pillar, which has dimensions equal to Buddha’s nostril. It is believed that whoever manages to pass through this opening gains enlightenment in the next life.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The approach to the temple is through the monumental Nandaimon Gate, a large southern gate reconstructed in the thirteenth century in the style of China’s Song dynasty. The gate is guarded by two imposing wooden statues of Congolese guardians, seven meters high, carved in 1203 by masters Unkei and Kaikei. These figures, with their dramatic facial expressions and tense muscles, represent the pinnacle of Japanese sculpture of the Kamakura period.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

KASUGA-TAISHA: SANCTUARY OF A THOUSAND LANTERNS<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Kasuga-Taisha Shrine was founded in 768 at the foot of the sacred Mikasa Hill and is one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan. Built by Fujiwara no Nagata at the behest of Empress Shotoku, the shrine served as the protector of the powerful Fujiwara clan that dominated Japanese politics during the Heian period. Unlike most shrines that celebrate one or two deities, Kasuga Taisha is dedicated to four gods.<\/p>\n\n\n

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What makes Kasuga-Taisha visually memorable are its lanterns. Almost three thousand lanterns, both stone ones along the approach paths and bronze ones hanging from the roofs, make this sanctuary unique in the world. Many of these lanterns have been gifted over the centuries by nobles, warriors and ordinary believers, the oldest dating back to the Muromachi period, i.e. the fourteenth century. More than seventy percent of all pre-Muromachi lanterns in Japan are found right here. The tradition of placing stone lanterns along the main path for worshipers began at Kasuga Taisha and from there spread to other shrines in the country.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Twice a year all the lanterns are lit during the Mantoro festival. Setsubun Mantoro is held on February 3rd and marks the transition from winter to spring, while Chugen Mantoro is held on August 14th and 15th during the Obon festival. The sight of three thousand lighted lanterns illuminating the night is something to remember for a lifetime. The flickering light creates an atmosphere of mysticism and spirituality that transports you to a long time ago. Worshipers write their wishes on wooden ema tiles and hang them on lanterns before lighting them, believing that the flames will carry their prayers to the gods.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Behind the shrine lies the primeval forest of Kasugayama, where the cutting of trees has been prohibited since 841. This two hundred and fifty hectares of untouched nature is home to one hundred and seventy five species of trees, sixty species of birds and more than one thousand and one hundred species of insects. The forest is considered sacred because it surrounds the shrine and its appearance has remained unchanged since the Nara period. Today it is part of the UNESCO world heritage and is a rare example of a preserved ecosystem that is more than a thousand years old. Unfortunately, the forest is not open to visitors, but its majestic silhouette can be seen from many points in the city.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The shrine cherishes the tradition of shikinen zotai, a periodical renewal that takes place every twenty years. This custom, based on the Shinto concept of tokoka or eternal youth, involves restoring buildings and objects to retain their divine power. The last renovation was the 60th in a row, held in 2016. Thanks to this practice, the shrine buildings look fresh and vital despite their centuries of existence.<\/p>\n\n\n

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K\u014dfuku-ji: \u200b\u200bTHE TEMPLE OF BLESSING AND PAGODA THAT TOUCHES THE SKY<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

K\u014dfuku-ji Temple was founded in 669 as the family temple of the Fujiwara clan and is one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Japan. Its origin is related to a touching love story, the wife of the founder of the clan, Kagami no Okimi, built the chapel praying for the recovery of her sick husband, Fujiwara no Kamatari. The temple was relocated twice before arriving at its current location in Nara in 710, at the same time as the capital was moved. The name Kofukuji, meaning Temple that Brings Blessings, was given to it by Kamatari’s son Fujiwara no Fuhito, inspired by the Buddhist Vimalakirti Sutra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the height of the Fujiwara clan’s power, the Kofukuji complex had more than one hundred and fifty buildings. The temple was not only a religious center but also a significant political factor that influenced the imperial government, sometimes through aggressive means. The marriage of Fuhito’s daughter to Emperor Sh\u014dmu, making her Empress Komyo, further cemented the temple’s connection to power. Empress Komyo was deeply devoted to Buddhism and in 730 ordered the construction of a five-story pagoda.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The five-story pagoda of K\u014dfuku-ji Temple is the most recognizable symbol of the city of Nara. With a height of fifty meters, this is the second tallest wooden pagoda in Japan, only seven meters lower than the pagoda of Toji Temple in Kyoto. Originally built in 730, the pagoda has been destroyed by fires five times. The current construction dates back to 1426 and is a national treasure. Each of the five floors symbolizes one of the five elements that make up the world according to Buddhist cosmology: earth, water, fire, wind and sky. Note to visitors, the pagoda is currently undergoing extensive restoration from July 2023 to March 2031, during which it is covered by scaffolding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The temple’s Treasury of National Treasures houses some of the most valuable Buddhist sculptures in Japan. Especially famous is the dry lacquered statue of Ashura, one of the eight heavenly guardians, as well as the bronze head of Yakushi Nyorai, the Medicine Buddha, which dates back to 685. The statue of Ashura, with three faces and six arms, is an expression of the extraordinary artistic skill of the Tenpyo period. Her brooding, almost melancholic expression makes her one of the most beloved Buddhist sculptures in Japan. The museum offers insight into thirteen centuries of Buddhist art and is a must-stop for all lovers of Japanese culture.<\/p>\n\n\n

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PRACTICAL ADVICE FOR VISITING NARA<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nara is extremely accessible from Kyoto and Osaka. The JR train takes forty-five minutes to arrive, while the Kintetsu Express takes thirty minutes to cross the line. The Japan Rail Pass covers JR lines and is an economical choice for travelers planning to visit multiple cities. Kintetsu Nara Station is closer to the park, while JR Nara Station is further away but connected by bus lines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When it comes to interacting with deer, there are a few rules to follow. Only buy shika senbei crackers sold in the park for two hundred yen, human food can harm them. Be careful during the breeding season from September to November, when the males can be more aggressive. Avoid approaching hinds with fawns from May to July. If deer surround you, show them your empty palms to signal that you are out of food. And most importantly, respect the fact that these are wild animals despite their habituation to humans.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The ideal time to visit depends on your preferences. Spring brings the cherry blossoms in April, while autumn from October to November is spectacular with the red maple leaves. Summer is hot and humid, but festivals like Mantoro in August provide an unforgettable experience. Winter is calm and with fewer tourists, and deer are especially active in search of food. For those who want to avoid the crowds, I recommend visiting early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Temples and parks are open even after dusk, and the night atmosphere has a special charm.<\/p>\n\n\n

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NARA: WHERE THE PAST AND THE PRESENT MEET<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nara is not just a stop on the way between Kyoto and Osaka. This is the place where Japanese civilization was born, where Buddhism and Shinto found a common language, where deer still roam as sacred messengers of the gods. Thirteen centuries of history exude from every stone of the temples, every bronze statue, every wooden pillar. And yet, Nara is not a museum, it is a living city that proudly preserves its heritage while simultaneously opening its doors to the modern world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A visit to Nara is a journey that transforms you, reminding you that beauty can be ancient and contemporary in the same breath. Nara taught me that time is not linear. Nara is a place that invites you to visit it again, because it always has something new to discover, another story to tell, another moment to give. Until next time, holy deer of Nara, guard this capital as you have for thirteen centuries.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Have you already had the opportunity to visit Nara, this unique ancient capital of the Land of the Rising Sun where tradition seamlessly intertwines with the lives of sacred deer? Or maybe you are just planning to discover the magic of Nara and its colorful parks, feel the spiritual peace of the temples and the recognizable deer that leave no one indifferent with their appearance?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feel free to leave your impressions, comments or questions below the text, or contact me via email and social networks. All information is available on the CONTACT<\/a><\/strong> page.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

See you soon, with a new story from the heart of the Far East!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With Love from Nara,
<\/em>Mr.M<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n

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This post is sponsored by the\u00a0United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism)<\/a>, as well as other local partners who selflessly supported this project. This post is my personal and honest review of the destination experience.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

My dear travellers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new series of travelogues on the Mr.M blog. There are places in the world that welcome you with the silence and spiritual peace of temples and history. Nara is just such a place. When I first set foot on the soil of this city, I felt that time flows differently here than in the rest of the world. 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