My dear travelers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new series of travelogues on the Mr.M blog. During the previous months, you had the opportunity to get to know some of the countries of the unusual continent: South America, and during the month of September, I will show you the beauty of the country located in the very heart of this continent – Venezuela. At the very beginning of today’s travelogue, where I will try to convey to you the beauty of the wilderness and untouched Venezuelan nature of the tallest uninterrupted waterfall in the world – Angel Falls and the beauty of exotic luxury and comfort Wakü Lodge in the Canaima National Park, which many say are the hidden gems of South America’s paradise nature, I would like to thank the Ministry of Tourism of the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela – MINTUR, as well as other partners who selflessly supported my adventure in Venezuela. With their help, travelogues from this exotic country were created, as well as numerous fashion stories that you will have the opportunity to read during this series of posts, and I sincerely hope that you will enjoy the new adventure.
Angel Falls (Salto Ángel) is the highest waterfall in the world, 979 meters high. The waterfall is located in the Canaima National Park in the delta of the Orinoco River (Bolívar, Venezuela), protected by UNESCO since 1994. The water of the Angel Falls falls over the edge of the Auján-tepuj plateau (tepui is a flat mountain – rock), which is one of the famous tepui pillars of Venezuela. Tepui mountains, such as Roraima, Kukenan, Auján-tepui (where the waterfall is located) and Chanata, are hundreds of millions of years old rocks with almost vertical cliffs and flat tops. Thanks to the specific geology and isolation, the tepuis are home to unique plant and animal species, and for the Pemon people they represent the “house of the gods”. Due to its uniqueness, the entire area of the Canaima National Park, which also includes part of the Gran Sabana region, has been declared a protected area of World Heritage (UNESCO).
Angel Falls can be reached by water (canoe) or air (plane or helicopter), there are no roads that lead directly to the falls. A canoe trip to the falls can take around 10 hours one way and is interesting for people who want to feel the true call of nature and the beauty of adventure. Since I am a non-swimmer and could not spend several hours driving a canoe in one direction, we decided on a faster and more comfortable option by plane.
If you are going by plane, visiting Angel Falls and the surrounding sights can take about an hour. Typically, the trip begins with arrival in Venezuela (most often by plane to Caracas or Puerto Ordaz), from where it is transferred to a domestic flight to a small airstrip in the village of Canaima. At the time of writing, the only commercial connection to Canaima is from Maiquetía (Caracas’ main airport) with two flights a week (Thursdays and Sundays) via the airline Conviasa. That is why most arrangements for visiting the waterfall include a stay of 3 or 4 nights, while the plane to Kanaima leaves on Thursdays or Sundays, and returns according to the same scheme (Thursday-Sunday or Sunday-Thursday).
Upon arrival in Canaima, you are usually met by a representative of the accommodation facility (such as Wakü Lodge) and transported to the Canaima Lagoon (not a real sea, but a large lake at the foot of the Auján-tepu). From there, take boats to your campsite or hotel by the lagoon. In the vicinity of Canaima there are other numerous waterfalls: El Sapo, Hacha, Golondrina and others, as well as the Kareia and Churun rivers, which are tributaries of the Karoní. They lead to the very foot of Kanjonja, where Angel Falls is located. In order to get to the waterfall itself, a three-day excursion is usually done: the first day a boat is sailed along the Karo River, and then along the Churun River for two afternoons on the way back and two on the way back.
The boat is narrow, often without comfortable seats, so I recommend that you bring a small pillow or blanket from the hotel to sit on the hardwood. After a few hours of sailing (about four hours to the first camp), another hour and a half walk through the jungle along the river to the viewpoint of the lower part of the waterfall. The path is steep and slippery, with shallow streams to cross, but the reward is a magnificent sight: Angel Falls is truly stunning. In contrast to the mystical and cloudy view from a distance, here you can feel the power and noise of the water mass. It is even better to stay overnight in an improvised camp near the waterfall (hammocks under a tent), most organized tours offer at least one night in a hotel with hammocks under the waterfall, which is an experience to remember. Since I was going by plane, this was not possible because there are no airstrips in the area.
For flight and travel planning, it is important to know the following details. The time to go to the waterfall is practically all year round, during the “dry season” (December-April) there is less rain and clearer skies, which is better for photography, but even the “rainy season” does not leave the canyon completely without water. Packed items should be adjusted to the restrictions: for a domestic flight from Caracas, you are usually allowed up to 23 kg of hand luggage and 5 kg in the cabin per person, but on the boat to the falls you can often only take about 10 kg per person. Also, you will check in much earlier in Venezuela, it is mandatory to show up at the airport two hours before the flight.
Entrance to Canaima National Park is currently around US$40 per person, which is charged separately (not included in the package). Due to the often limited internet and mobile connectivity in the jungle, patience is recommended: upon arrival at Canaime airport and lagoons, there is usually no LTE signal, and the internet at the hotel location is paid extra or weak. The most important thing is that you need to plan your time carefully, because you can’t easily change flights on the spot, and don’t forget to take the essentials with you to have a minimum of comfort. However, when the sun rises above the mist of the falls, all the effort pays off because Angel Falls is a sight to remember for a lifetime.
Angel Falls is without a doubt the highest waterfall in the world: 979 meters high, of which 807 meters is the undivided water fall from Auyán-tepui, a stone “table-mountain” in the Canaima National Park in southeastern Venezuela. The name tepui comes from the language of the indigenous Pemon people and means “house of the gods” and not without reason: tepui are almost vertical cliffs above endless rainforests, with peaks as old as 2 billion years.
The water that creates the waterfall comes from rainwater that condenses on top of the Auyán-tepui and collects in streams that cross the edge of the plateau. The first drop is huge, the water dissipates, turns into mist and only partially reaches the ground. During the dry season (December–March), the flow can be significantly lower, and during the rainy season (the best time to visit) the rivers are full and the scenery more vivid and breathtaking.
The waterfall was first discovered from the West by reserve travelers when American pilot Jimmie Angel flew over them in 1933 looking for a gold deposit. At the end of the forties, in 1937 to be exact, he tried to land on top of the tepup, but the plane got stuck in the swampy ground. He abandoned his original plan, so he and his team descended the steep cliffs on foot, a journey that took 11 days. During that trip, stories about the waterfall spread, so that in 1939 the Venezuelan authorities decided to name it after him – Salto Ángel. The authentic crash site is now on display in a museum in Ciudad Bolívar.
Latvian explorer Aleksandrs Laime was the first European to reach the foot of the waterfall in 1946. Later, he became the first man to climb to the top of Auyán-tepui, in search of adventure and the secrets of the ancient rocks.
TEPUI: A RELIC OF AGE AND BIODIVERSITY
Tepui formations, including Auyán-tepui, Roraima, Kukenán and others, make up about 65% of the area of Canaima National Park. They were created by the erosion of a prehistoric sand layer over a granite rock that is about 3 billion years old. Sometimes the figure of Auyán-tepui covers more than 700 km², making it almost the size of Tokyo, while the area of the entire park is similar in size to Belgium.
FLORA AND FAUNA
The peaks of the tepua hide considerable endemic vegetation, plants such as Heliamphora (carnivores) and other specialized species live on the poor, rocky summits. These highly isolated flora give the feeling of a long lost world, they inspired writers like Arthur Conan Doyle and the movie “The Lost World”.
MYTHS, LEGENDS AND CULTURE
Name and meaning
In the language of the Pemon people, the waterfall is called “Kerepakupai Merú”, which means “waterfall from the deepest place”, a name that reflects the local people’s spiritual respect for the tepuis.
Spirits of the Tepui
In Pemon people folklore, tepui are taboo and “house of spirits”, a place that was rarely visited, and Auyán-tepui was even called “devil’s mountain”. Entities live there that sometimes hunt the souls of careless travellers, so goes the local legend.
TIPS FOR VISIT ANGEL FALLS
- Flight over the falls – the best visible panoramas, but expensive. Who wants to see the waterfall quickly and with the highest level of comfort and time saving is really worth it.
- Best time to visit – rainy season, if you are canoeing the waterways (September–November) the water flow is high and the waterfalls are in full force. The dry season can bring a less spectacular view.
- Travel planning – book your flight and arrangements in advance. Flights are limited and are frequently changed and canceled due to weather conditions.
- Equipment – light, waterproof clothing, shoes, raincoat, flashlight, insect repellent.
- Physical fitness – hiking through the jungle and mud requires endurance; if you plan to top the tepua (teko Roraima, longer trip), additional equipment is necessary.
- Respect for nature – tepuis and jungles are vulnerable ecosystems, follow the guides and don’t leave trash behind.
During my visit to the Canaima National Park, one of the most beautiful moments was staying at the small ecological lodge Wakü, located on the shores of the Canaima Lagoon, not far from several small waterfalls. Wakü Lodge is run by the Garcia family, the driving force being Maria (Mary) Garcia and her husband Julián Rodriguez.
Mrs. Maria is the daughter of Raul Garcia, the well-known founder of a travel agency in the region, and she and her husband built Wakü Lodge in 2002. As I was told, Maria and her team personally welcome guests, upon arrival at the airport they rush to pick you up in small open safari buses and transport you to the hotel lobby, where they welcome you with a cocktail and introduce you to the schedule of activities with a smile. My first visit to Wakü Lodge was amazing and I immediately felt the warm family atmosphere. Wakü Lodge really feels like a family paradise in the middle of the rainforest!
Wakü Lodge is built in the style of local tradition, with wooden bungalows and typical “churuata”, circular rooms covered with palm thatch. In total there are 19 rooms with French or separate beds with top quality linens and one spacious family apartment unit called Casa Kanau which has two bathrooms, kitchen, TV, terrace overlooking the lagoon. All rooms have air conditioning and hot water, although this lodge is categorized with only 3, believe me the comfort is at the level of better hotels than 5 in Europe, which is a real rarity in such conditions.
Travelers who want an extra atmosphere can choose an apartment with a sofa and a view of the lagoon, but even the standard rooms are no less comfortable, everything is really tastefully decorated and they have fantastic and fast Wi-Fi internet. Wakü Lodge prides itself on a relaxed atmosphere: verandas with hammocks and hammocks offer views of the lagoon and surrounding mountains. Wooden armchairs and tables are placed in the garden and rest areas, so it’s a real pleasure to take a break with the sounds of the jungle and the view of the water after a whole day’s hiking. In your free time, you can sit comfortably with a coffee or a refreshing drink on one of the wooden bridges next to the bar overlooking the canyon, everything is organized in harmony with nature.
The organization of activities and food at Wakü Lodge is also very carefully organised. As a guest here, you have at your disposal local guides who know every corner of this part of the National Park. From Wakü, you can go on all tours, for example, we took a boat trip to the nearby waterfalls of Sapo (El Sapo) and Hacha, just a few minutes’ drive from the hotel. As part of the accommodation, arrangements are offered that include a half-day flight over the Auján-tepu and Angel Falls (panoramic fly-over over the green canyon).
Later, at a cocktail party under the mantle mushroom of the churuata-restaurant, the friendly staff shared stories about the indigenous Piedmontese, with them you can also visit the village of Kavac, where ancient customs and caves untouched by cave colors can be found. The whole program is designed so that during your stay you can feel all the charms of this part of the Canaima National Park: beautiful beaches and islands in the lagoon, water paths and steep rocks, and wake up to the chirping of birds and a view of the greenery that surrounds the hotel.
The experience of dining at the Churuata is especially wonderful. Wakü Lodge has two large dining rooms (built using traditional techniques) that offer views of the slopes of Auján-tepu, as well as the nearby mountains and waterfalls. The daily menu is a buffet for all three meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner, and all meals are included in the package price. Local specialties are included (the offer is varied: from exotic fruits and juices to rice dishes, meat, fish from springs and vegetables), and the food is served fresh and the portions are generous. Free tea, coffee and filtered as well as bottled water are always available. Other drinks such as beer, juices, wine are paid separately when checking out from the hotel and have a very decent selection, for example local cocktails with tropical flavors, domestic wines and beers.
As a snack, you can try the sweets and cakes that the hostess Marija personally prepares according to her family’s recipes, as a welcome you often get a free cake and juice. In the rather non-transparent Venezuelan economy, all these standards really seem almost luxurious, but as the owners point out, their goal is only to combine the comfort of travellers and the natural environment around them.
A special part of the charm of Wakü Lodge is the animals that roam freely on the property. The whole complex is “full of free birds”, this heavenly hotel has become a kind of refuge for parrots and toucans. Every day in the garden I saw dozens of parrots of various species, colorful large-armed macaws and gregarious toucans hopping and flying around the wooden terraces. All animals are friendly, guests often pet them on the head or shake their hands and feed them small berries, which they gladly accept. There were also a few smaller tropical birds that landed on the bar while I was drinking my juice.
As a facility, Wakü Lodge prides itself on becoming a safe haven for wild birds that are not in cages, you don’t have to look for free colorful parrots in the jungle, they will come to you on their own. Apart from the birds, I also noticed numerous species of monkeys such as capuchins in the trees around the accommodation. An additional plus is the presence of two labradors and one host cat who guard the property, and this hotel is home to many exotic animals. If you stay in this hotel, in addition to the heavenly view of the lagoon, you will have the opportunity to stay in a small zoo where you are welcome. At the end of my visit, I realized that staying in nature with Ms. Maria Garcia and her team is both luxurious and full of authentic experiences, just what a true adventure visitor to the jungle demands.
Strolling slowly through the improvised “garden” of Wakü Lodge before dinner, I thought how uniquely it all came together: the view of the misty cliff of Auján-tepuj, the colorful parrots sitting at the door and the warm words of Mrs. Maria as she offered us cold juice and cookies. I am grateful to them for allowing me to share this experience, I believe that everyone who decides to visit Angel Falls will have a stay at Wakü Lodge as fondly remembered as I did.
When I stepped onto the soil of Canaima National Park and set out on my way to Angel Falls, I knew I was in for an extraordinary adventure. But what I couldn’t have imagined was how much that experience would change my view of nature, time, and life itself. Meeting the highest waterfall in the world is not only an aesthetic experience, it is not only a visual fascination. It is the moment when a person realizes how small he is in front of the power and beauty of nature, but also how happy he is to be able to witness it.
Angel Falls, or Kerepakupai Merú as the Pemon Indians call them, is not just another place on the map. They are a symbol of eternity and a reminder that there are forces far older and more powerful than us. The sound of water falling almost a kilometer through the air, the tiny droplets floating like mist and the light refracting on that endless waterfall, create the feeling that you are standing in front of nature’s altar. It is not a sight to be forgotten, it is an experience that is etched in my heart and will remain there forever.
But the human warmth that I experienced in Venezuela left an equally strong impression on me. People who live at the foot of the tepua and look at the Angel Falls every day seem to have found a way to live without rush and stress. Their life is connected with nature, with the rhythms of land and water, with respect for places that have been protected by their ancestors for centuries. Observing that calmness and simplicity of life was as precious to me as the sight of the waterfall itself.
One of the highlights of my trip was staying at Wakü Lodge. There I found the perfect balance between luxury and nature. The owner Mary with her team of hosts made every guest feel like a member of the family. Her passion for this place, her love for the animals that live there and her sincere desire to provide guests with an experience that goes beyond an ordinary trip, make Wakü Lodge unique in the world. There I was not just a passenger, I was a guest who was received with warmth and attention.
I want to give special thanks to Wakü Lodge and Mary for her team’s hospitality. Every moment spent in that environment was ennobling, from the quiet mornings when you can see the mist over the lagoon through the windows, to the evenings when the sound of the jungle merges with the silence and you feel that you belong to that endless universe. That experience was much more than staying in a hotel, it was meeting people who sincerely believe in preserving nature and in the beauty of sharing that treasure with others.
Also, my gratitude goes to the Ministry of Tourism of the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela – MINTUR. Their support and invitation to visit this part of the world allowed me to have one of the most intense and authentic experiences of my life. At a time when tourism can sometimes lose touch with what is truly important, here I found an example of how you can combine the preservation of natural beauty, respect for local culture and opening the door to the world to come and see one of the natural wonders of the planet.
For all travelers who are considering whether to embark on this adventure, my message is simple: do it! The road to Angel Falls is not the easiest, it requires a plane flight, a river cruise, a hike through the jungle and a willingness to step out of your comfort zone. But therein lies the beauty of this experience. It’s not a trip you’ll forget in a week, it’s a story you’ll carry with you forever and tell everyone around you.
In the end, I can say that I took much more than memories from Venezuela. I took with me a sense of humility in front of nature, gratitude to the people who preserve and nurture this land, and inspiration to travel further with an open heart. Angel Falls and Wakü Lodge showed me that true miracles still exist and are there, ready to remind us how magnificent our world is.
Thank you, Venezuela. Thank you, Wakü Lodge. Thank you, Ministry of MINTUR. This was an experience of a lifetime that I will remember forever.
As always, I tried to share authentic impressions, the right atmosphere and recommendations for you who like to travel in style, but also with an open heart. Have you already had the opportunity to visit Canaima National Park and beautiful Venezuela? Or maybe you are just planning to discover this unusual country that is the hidden gem of South America?
Feel free to leave your impressions, comments or questions below the text, or contact me via email and social networks, all information is available on the CONTACT page.
See you soon, with a new story from the other side of the world.
With Love from Canaima,
Mr.M
This post is sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism of the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela – MINTUR and Wakü Lodge Hotel, as well as other local partners. This post is my personal and honest review of the destination experience.