Letters from Venezuela: From the Historic House of San Mateo to the Modern Taste of Santa Teresa Rum

My dear travellers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new series of travelogues on the Mr.M blog. During the previous months, you had the opportunity to get to know some of the countries of the unusual continent: South America, and during the month of September, I will show you the beauty of the country located in the very heart of this continent – Venezuela. At the very beginning of today’s travelogue, where I will try to convey to you the beauty of the historical Venezuelan heritage and the orderlies of modern history – House of San Mateo and Hacienda Santa Teresa, I would like to thank the Ministry of Tourism of the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela – MINTUR, as well as other partners who selflessly supported my adventure in Venezuela. With their help, travelogues from this exotic country were created, as well as numerous fashion stories that you will have the opportunity to read during this series of posts, and I sincerely hope that you will enjoy the new adventure.

During my stay I visited two extraordinary places in Venezuela that impressed me. First up was the Casa Histórica de San Mateo e Ingenio Bolívar, a historic estate in the state of Aragua that has been owned by the Bolívar family for centuries. The second is Hacienda Santa Teresa, a famous plantation and distillery that produces Santa Teresa rum, but also the site of an unusual human story of a social community. Both sites are connected with the life of Simón Bolívar, the Libertador of South America, so this visit was a kind of return to the history of that magnificent person.

We started the day in Caracas, a dynamic South American city full of contrasts. As we left the city, the road took us down the slopes of Aragua, where the sugar cane fields spread out before us with incredible scenery. The valley of Aragua was occasionally hidden by dense green forests and colored by the colorfulness of tropical birds.

CASA HISTÓRICA SAN MATEO AND INGENIO BOLÍVAR

When I arrived in the village of San Mateo in the Venezuelan region of Aragua, I was greeted by the imposing Casa Histórica, the former colonial home and plantation of the Bolívar family. In the center of the brick buildings there is also an old sugar cane processing workshop – Ingenio Bolívar. Today, this complex serves as the Sugar Cane Museum, where you can see old wheels, boilers and sugar production equipment, and the whole complex exudes a colonial atmosphere. Through the window of the house I saw a panorama of the plantation: an old castle hidden under tall cypress trees and huge fields of green plants.

I read with great interest the inscriptions on the information boards in the museum: the entire property, allegedly for 207 years, was owned by the Bolívar family. One sign in particular caught my attention, on which it was written that back in 1593, Governor Osorio granted land to Simón Bolívar “El Mozo”, who built a residence and developed a plantation on this elevation.

That Simón “The Young” is actually the great-grandfather of Libertador, so the symbolism was also felt: the land was passed down through the generations of his family. In the era of colonialization, not only sugarcane was grown there and rum was made, but also coffee, cotton, tobacco and indigo. Listening to the guide’s story as I passed by the old machines, I imagined how workers in white shirts and scarves once coughed up grape sugar and separated the pulp by hand. In front of us were massive manual machinery and stone rollers and one of the guides even showed me an old trapiche that came from the Bolívar family, while explaining that these mechanical wheels used to come from Europe and were the latest technology for cane processing. Today, of course, all this is a museum and reminder, but also a trace of history that connects the continents.

After reading the plaques and inscriptions, I paused at the stone slab at the entrance to the courtyard, where a list of owners and important dates, from the time of Spanish colonialism to the wars of liberation, were carved. Then I passed between rows of tall cane stalks. One of the workers, dressed in a white linen shirt and wide-brimmed hat, waved me cheerfully as he broke a couple of sugar cane leaves, dropped a drop of dark yellow juice with his fingers and smiled saying it was the “dissolved sweet life” of rum.

The guide that day also told us an interesting fact about modern projects: he said that the plantation still maintains the old irrigation system, in which water from nearby springs slowly comes through small canals to the cane, so it grows faster than in the surrounding area. He also emphasized that the entire area is now protected as a national historical monument, the Venezuelan government declared this complex a monument of national importance in 1964.

In Casa Alta, the main building of the estate, there is also a statue of Antonio Ricareto, the captain of the patriotic forces who in 1814 blew up the powder magazine on the estate to prevent it from falling into the hands of the royal army, sacrificing his life in the process. Seeing his monument right in the middle of the old house was very emotional, he was a man who formally worked for freedom and our dedicated guides reminded me of that. This plantation was also known for its technology, I saw in the documents that in 1800, the famous naturalist Alexander von Humboldt visited this place and noted the impressive water system that irrigated the plantation. Accordingly, this old engineer still has impressive stone aqueducts and water-pumping wheels, and a little further a wagon is called “Humboldt” because he used it to transport samples of sugar cane. Thanks to such innovations and significant history, the Venezuelan government declared this complex a national historical monument in 1964.

BOLIVAR AND SAN MATEO: A SYMBOL OF FREEDOM

Simón Bolívar, the “Liberator” of Latin America, often stayed in San Mateo, and it was here that he experienced one of the most difficult and emotional episodes of his life. In this house took place the tragic scene of the death of his cousin, the young military leader Antonio Ricaurte, who, sacrificing his own life, set fire to the powder store to prevent the Spanish troops from taking control.

When I walked through the room where the memory of Ricaurte is preserved, I had the impression that the roar of the explosion of 1814 still resounded. It is not just a historical episode, it is a moment when freedom becomes more important than one’s own life.

San Mateo: Architecture with Soul

The house in San Mateo is a typical colonial hacienda, with a spacious courtyard, verandas and thick walls. What particularly fascinated me was the simplicity of the architecture, the modest white facade, wooden windows and doors, but everything inside exudes elegance and dignity.

In the central part there is a large courtyard with stone paths. Walking through this space, I imagined how soldiers and servants ran carrying weapons, how Simón Bolívar received reports and how the house was a real military headquarters at that time.

Today, the yard exudes peace and quiet. Palm trees, tropical plants and birds create an idyllic atmosphere, a complete contrast to the turbulent historical events.

San Mateo: Museum of Freedom

Casa Histórica de San Mateo also functions as a museum today. It exhibits items from the time of Bolívar, his weapons, uniform, personal belongings and documents.

One of the most valuable exhibits is the reconstruction of the scene of the explosion, with preserved objects that testify to the sacrifice of Ricaurte. In one corner is Bolívar’s study, with a simple table and chair, but also with maps and books that speak of his tireless work and vision of a free Latin America.

Casa San Mateo Histórica as a place of remembrance

What touched me the most was the way the local guides talk about the house. Their stories are not just historical myths and legends, they are emotional confessions that convey pride and gratitude. When I listened to the story of Antonio Ricaurte, the guide spoke with such passion that I felt he was talking about his closest relative.

San Mateo is not just history, it is a living memory. People come here to remember, to learn and to inspire new generations.

Simón Bolívar grew up without his parents, because he lost both his mother and his father in his early childhood. The greatest care of him was taken by the black servant Hipólita, who was his nurse, and later a kind of second mother. She fed him, nurtured and raised him with a lot of love, so Bolívar later said that he owed his health and strength to her. Precisely because of Hipólita and the warmth of her presence, even as a child Bolívar had the opportunity to see the importance of the African heritage and the different cultures that shaped the then Venezuelan society.

A visit to San Mateo inevitably made me think about Bolívar himself. His life was full of contrasts, an aristocratic background, yet an uncompromising fight for freedom, the luxury of youth in Europe, and later a difficult military life in the jungles and mountains of Latin America.

Interesting moments were recorded in Bolívar’s private life: during the assassination in 1828, he was saved by the brave woman Manuela Sáenz, whom he later married. The guides did not say much about their life journey and love during the tour, but it was enough to hear that anecdote to understand how much influence it has on his personality and the greatness of his character and work.

This house in San Mateo witnessed his victories and defeats, but also moments of personal tragedy. Here he lost a relative, comrade and friend. That experience further hardened his determination to liberate the continent.

On the other hand, for me as a traveler, Casa Histórica de San Mateo is one of those places that leave an indelible mark on my memory. When you step into rooms that are more than two centuries old, when you see walls that have survived war, fires and reconstruction, you realize that history is not just something you read in books, it is there, tangible, real.

San Mateo taught me that freedom is the fruit of enormous sacrifices. He also taught me that heroes are sometimes ordinary people who make a decision in one moment that changes the course of history.

However, despite his military and political successes, Bolívar did not live long in peace and freedom. His struggle also had dark moments. He died in 1830 in Santa Marta (today’s Colombia) at the age of only 47, probably of tuberculosis, leaving behind an insurmountable ideal of a great Latin American union.

His image is everywhere in Venezuela: statues in squares, street names in all cities. Children, wearing t-shirts with his image, are celebrating Independence Day in Venezuela in the school hall. I have the impression that every heart in Venezuela is grateful for his efforts, and that his promise of freedom still lives in the voice of every new citizen of Venezuela. For them, he was not only a historical figure, he was a beacon of the future.

San Mateo: A Fusion of History and Tourism

Today, Casa Histórica de San Mateo is an important tourist destination in Venezuela. Visitors come from all over the world, and the Government of Venezuela and the Ministry of Tourism are making efforts to preserve the house and for its story to reach as many people as possible.

For tourists, visiting this place is not only a historical trip, it is an opportunity to get to know the local culture, to talk with the locals and to feel the spirit of the past.

Tips for travellers

If you’re planning a trip to Venezuela, be sure to put San Mateo on your bucket list. Bring comfortable shoes because you will be walking a lot, and be sure to hire a guide, because their passion and knowledge give a special dimension to visiting this place.

Don’t rush. Leave yourself enough time to indulge in the atmosphere of the house, to stop in the yard and imagine moments from the past. And don’t forget to visit the museum, the objects you will see will help you better understand the greatness of Bolívar and the courage of the people who followed him.

HACIENDA SANTA TERESA: RUM AND FAMILY TRADITION

I continued my journey towards the Aragua Valley, where the Hacienda Santa Teresa plantation rises, world famous for the rum of the same name. Arriving at Hacienda Santa Teresa was like entering an oasis. Half an hour from the nearby city, with beautiful landscapes and tropical birds you have the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of silence. In front of the main gate of the property, I was greeted by the pleasant smell of fermented sugar cane, while the huge wooden rollers, although the historical exhibits looked imposing between the rows of tall cane.

While walking through the green plantations of sugar cane, I learned that Santa Teresa was founded way back in 1796. Waterfalls from the nearby slopes directed rich water to the plantations, enabling lush plant growth. On this same estate, sugarcane, coffee and cocoa raw materials for the production of rum were originally grown, and the perfect climate and moist soil made this place ideal for the maturation of the distillate.

They introduced me to the estate as a place where golden rum ages in barrels for decades and to the story of the family that has been running it for 227 years. It is the oldest private distillery in Venezuela, managed by the Vollmer-Rivas family for the fifth generation.

Although I came on a media trip, the guides kindly took me on a tour of the old factory. In front of machines older than me, the story of the process unfolded: we saw copper cauldrons and tall wooden barrels. They explained to me how the sugar cane is ground, the juice is fermented, and then it is further purified in tall cylindrical columns. I heard that Santa Teresa uses the solera method, which means that the young rum comes into contact with the older rum through layers of casks, this gives it exceptional depth and balance. The same explanations are also supported by the taste: the host offered me Rum 1796, a specially praised old composition. Each sip brought notes of caramel and vanilla, with a hint of earthiness, just like the book of scents I read while traveling through Venezuela.

THE ALCATRAZ PROJECT: PRISONER REHABILITATION THROUGH RUGBY

In addition to tourism and beverage production, they also pointed out to me a unique social program related to Hacienda Santa Teresa. Legend has it that in 2003, a group of criminals broke into the compound and attacked the guard. Instead of a prison sentence, the owners offered them an unusual choice: continue as before or become part of a rehabilitation program. This is how the Alcatraz Project was born, a program of the Santa Teresa Foundation that recruits prisoners from criminal gangs, provides them with professional training, psychological support and rugby training, so that they can reintegrate into society with new knowledge and values. Teamwork and role responsibility are learned through joint training. This project has a serious main goal, which is that professional coaches spread passion for sports, self-belief and optimism among prisoners.

I attended a short presentation of this community service program, held by an ex-prisoner, where he shared his life story and the importance of personal responsibility. From his story, I understood that the positive change in his life was initiated not only by sport, but also by a new social identity, because after the program ends, prisoners get the opportunity to fully integrate into society and get a second chance for a new and better life. This is a program for prisoners in Venezuela who believe in the discipline they learn by playing this noble sport – rugby and want to find their new place in society.

To date, the program has included 11 criminal groups with more than 200 participants and is practiced in dozens of prison centers in Venezuela. The results are impressive: more than 216 reintegrated, the first women’s rugby team in prison was founded and a number of international awards for the changes achieved.

I would say that the life of that program is almost a sports epic: from the first attempts at recruitment to the teachers who now transmit the values ​​themselves, to put it mildly, it has grown into a leading model of rehabilitation. The program director explained to me the plans for the next phase: the establishment of the prison’s organic self-sustainability gardens, which they are already planning on Santa Teresa’s arable lots. As I waited in the shade in the parking lot, I reflected on how moved I was by the idea that sports and education could change the lives of people once convicted of crimes. Also, I learned that this model is considered an example of good practice: it was even presented at Harvard as a case from South America.

For me, this project was almost the highlight of the trip, because it showed how the past and the future are intertwined in the most free way: doors that were once closed are now open from the inside, and history becomes alive. At that moment I realized that something similar could be imagined in my environment, I watched the ball as the convicts ran across the prison field and thought that the game can turn the shadows of the past into the shadows of hope. One of the former prisoners, now a coach, waved at me with a smile. I wasn’t just walking through the museum environment, now I was looking at the future through the prism of former darkness.

At the end of the road, I looked back through the memories. I was grateful that this trip brought me not only knowledge about colonial plantations and revolutions, but also an encounter with human stories that are not found in books and guidebooks.

During all these visits, I felt that the history and the present of Venezuela are inextricably linked. Casa Histórica and Hacienda Santa Teresa are not just monuments or industrial sites, they are living proof that the story of freedom and progress can be intertwined with everyday life. By visiting these places, I felt that I connected even more closely with the spirit of Libertadores, but also that I got to know the human side of modern Venezuela, full of enthusiasm and desire for change.

Visiting Casa Histórica de San Mateo and Hacienda Santa Teresa was for me one of those experiences that change my world view and leave a deep mark on my memory. Walking through the rooms of the house where Simón Bolívar grew up and where crucial events for the independence of Venezuela took place, I realized that history is never distant and abstract, it is always there, alive and present, carved into walls, yards and people’s memories. Every stone, every room and every story conveys a part of the identity of this people, a part of the struggle that shaped the continent.

San Mateo taught me how much the power of one man and one nation can change the course of history. Bolívar was not only a military leader, but also a visionary, a man who knew that freedom has a price and that without sacrifice there are no lasting victories. In that house, faced with personal losses and tragedies, he found new strength and determination to continue the fight, leaving us a legacy that goes beyond the borders of Venezuela.

The visit to Hacienda Santa Teresa was a perfect contrast, while San Mateo bears witness to the past and the struggle for freedom, Santa Teresa speaks of the present and the future, of how a better world can be built through togetherness, work and dedication. Their project to rehabilitate prisoners, through which people are given a new chance at life, shows that the ideals of freedom and humanity still live on today. It is not only a story about premium quality rum, but also about humanity, the power of forgiveness and a second chance.

For me, this trip was much more than a classic tour of tourist destinations. It was a journey through history, culture and values ​​that shaped a nation, but also universal values ​​that inspire the whole world. I learned that real strength lies in people, in their willingness to fight, to dream, to create and to believe in a better tomorrow.

At the end of this journey, I feel immense gratitude. First of all, I would like to thank the Ministry of Tourism of the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela – MINTUR, which made such an exceptional and unique experience possible. Their support and commitment to preserving the country’s cultural and historical heritage not only inspire travelers, but also ensure that stories like those of San Mateo and Santa Teresa continue to live on and inspire future generations. Thank you for the warm welcome, the professional organization and the sincere effort that foreigners like me can experience the soul of Venezuela in the most beautiful way.

I also thank the people I met: guides, hosts, locals for their warmth and willingness to share stories, anecdotes and memories. It is they who give a special charm to such trips, because through their eyes and words, history and culture become a part of ourselves.

I leave Venezuela with a heart full of gratitude and with the feeling that I was part of something much bigger than a simple trip. This was a lesson in courage, freedom, community and humanity, values ​​that transcend time and space. And I know that I will come back here again, because places like this and people like this remain a part of you forever.

As always, I tried to share authentic impressions, the right atmosphere and recommendations for you who like to travel in style, but also with an open heart. Have you already had the opportunity to visit Caracas, its extraordinary surroundings and beautiful Venezuela? Or maybe you are just planning to discover this unusual country that is the hidden gem of South America?

Feel free to leave your impressions, comments or questions below the text, or contact me via email and social networks, all information is available on the CONTACT page.

See you soon, with a new story from the other side of the world.

With Love from Caracas,
Mr.M

This post is sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism of the Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela – MINTUR and Hacienda Santa Teresa, as well as other local partners. This post is my personal and honest review of the destination experience.