Letters from Brazil: Rio Carnival, Discover the Magic of the Biggest Show in the World!

My dear travelers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new series of travelogues on the Mr.M blog. April, as well as the following months, will be dedicated to one unusual continent – South America, I will show you the countries that I had the opportunity to visit and I am sure that you will enjoy it and want to spend your vacation in one of the destinations. At the very beginning of this travelogue about Rio Carnival, I would like to thank the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism), local ministries of tourism, national and city tourism boards, as well as other partners who selflessly supported my adventure in South America. With their help, travelogues from Brazil (Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo) and other countries were created, as well as numerous fashion stories that you will have the opportunity to read during this series of posts, and I sincerely hope that you will enjoy the new adventure.

Posts from Brazil were created with the selfless help of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism), EMBRATUR (National Tourism Organization of Brazil) – Visit Brasil, Carnaval Experience, as well as numerous local partners that will be mentioned later.

Carnival in Rio de Janeiro is the largest open-air party in the world, visited by several million people around the world every year. It is the manifestation by which Rio has become recognizable at the world level and therefore the carnival gets better every year due to the possibility of bigger budgets that samba schools invest in their performances every year. You are probably wondering what the organization of this famous outdoor party looks like?

The Carnaval Experience team is here to give you an exclusive peek behind the scenes of the organisation of the Rio Carnival! During ten years of rich experience, the Carnaval Experience team has perfected the organization of special tourist visits for all interested visitors who want to feel a unique and authentic experience suitable for all ages! The Carnaval Experience team came up with the idea to present the universe of Samba schools in Rio de Janeiro, to allow all visitors to see and feel the magic of the creation of a show like Carnival in Rio, as well as the history of Samba and Carnival itself.

This was made possible by the non-governmental organization Pimpolhos da Grande Rio. In partnership with its “mother school”, Academicos do Grande Rio, the Carnaval Experience team opens the doors of the Carnival’s playful universe for the general public to be enchanted by the characters of this beautiful world cultural manifestation. Pimpolhos da Grande Rio is a children’s samba school and non-governmental organization. Their mission is to promote social integration and education through carnival. The Carnaval Experience tourism program is part of the Pimpolhos da Grande Rio pillar of socio-economic sustainability and arises from the need to ensure the continuity of socio-cultural projects.

The Carnaval Experience is the only tour that allows you to peek behind the scenes of the Carioca Carnival, the most famous carnival in the world all year round, if you are unable to visit the carnival. When you’re in Rio, you simply have to experience Samba! This special tourist tour shows the artistry and imagination of all those who deeply believe and invest their true love and passion in creating the magic of Carnival and allows you to peek behind the scenes of the biggest show in the world! Allow yourself to live a unique and authentic experience, exploring behind the scenes, secrets and familiar people who make preparations for the parade.

During the tour, you will witness the process of creating and manufacturing floats and more than 3,000 costumes for the parade. Guided Tour of the 2022 Carnival Champions Warehouse – Samba School, Grande Rio. This tour offers an exhibition on the history of samba and carnival. Finally, don’t miss the opportunity to dress up in exclusive parade costumes, feel the rhythm of samba and enjoy the delicious caipirinha that is there to welcome you.

What you can expect from this Carnaval Experience tour:

• Guided tour of the Academicos da Grande Rio warehouse – one of the main samba schools (30 min).
• Lecture in the exhibition room: you will learn a little about the history of samba and carnival parades (20 min).
• Entertainment: dressing up in costumes from previous parades and taking photos (20 min).
• A taste of samba: Caipirinha welcome (10 min).
• Little samba class with one of their dancers! (10 min).

Have you ever wondered how the preparation calendar for the Rio Carnival works? Do you know what it looks like behind the scenes? After completing a small carnival school with the Carnaval Experience team, I will try to explain to you step by step the conceptual creation process, as well as the organization of this world spectacle!

All fans of this world sensation called Carnival in Rio know that this parade takes place every year in February or March at the Sambadrome Marquis de Sapucai in Rio de Janeiro. Many people from Europe think that the Carnival with beautiful costumes takes place in the streets of Rio de Janeiro, that was once upon a time, but today all the main activities of the carnival and the presentation of the samba school are held exclusively at the Sambadrome. What you must know is the fact that Brazilians are extremely proud of this event and that for them it is not just an event but a way of life. Carnival in Rio represents a real explosion of emotions, colors, glitter and joy! What many do not know is that the preparation of the production for the biggest show on earth lasts all year long. Preparation for the next Carnival begins immediately after the Carnival is over and it looks something like this:

MARCH

Immediately after the last held parade, samba schools evaluate what worked and what needs to be changed for the next Carnival. In addition, work begins on the dismantling of floats and other used materials from the last carnival. During this period, samba schools also define what will be used and what will not be used during the next Carnival. Materials for recycling and sale are separated.

APRIL and MAY

During this period, the plot of the next carnival is chosen and the samba schools start the carnival planning process again. In short, the plot of the carnival consists of a story and a theme.

JUNE

Schools already have conceptually ready, sketched and drawn costumes and allegories.

JULY, AUGUST and SEPTEMBER

During this period, schools have already made samples (trial versions) of costumes and floats (parade floats). During this period, one can already see how the next carnival is slowly taking shape and getting its new form. If you visit a samba school with the Carnaval Experience team during this period, you can see the secrets and surprises of samba schools. I would just ask that you remember not to take pictures of the floats.

OCTOBER

The beginning of carnival fever in full swing: the official samba plot is chosen and filmed. Essays Begin and take place in samba schools as well as on the street. They involve community members who will parade: you have to have the samba theme on the tip of your tongue, be willing, excited and have a lot of love for the associations!

NOVEMBER

The beginning of the reproduction of costumes and sculptures, as well as the painting of fantasies and allegories.

DECEMBER

The production of costumes begins with an emphasis especially on those that will be on top of the floats and are very luxurious, opulent and special.

JANUARY and FEBRUARY

These are the two most intensive months during the organization of the carnival due to production work and numerous rehearsals that are in full swing. And then it’s time to start the parade!

Finally, after all these efforts and this extraordinary dedication, the samba schools can breathe a sigh of relief, at least for a moment. The sense of duty is fulfilled!

This festival, which takes place every year before Lent, is considered the largest carnival celebration in the world, with over two million people a day on the streets of the city. The first carnival festival in Rio was held in 1723.

A typical Rio Carnival parade is filled with parties, floats and decorations from the many samba schools located in Rio (approximately more than 200, divided into five leagues/divisions). A samba school is composed of a collaboration of local neighbors who want to attend the carnival together, with some kind of regional, geographic and common origin.

There is a specific order that each school must follow when registering for the parade. Each school starts with the “comissao de frente” (which means “Front Commission”), that is the group of people from the school that appears first. Made up of ten to fifteen people, the comissao de frente represents the school and sets the mood and style of their presentation. These people have choreographed dances in elaborate costumes that usually tell a short story. After the “comissao de frente” is the first float in the samba school, called “abre-alas” (“Opening the wings”).

Next come the Mestre-sala and the Porta-Bandeira (“Master of Ceremonies and Flag-bearer”), with one to four couples, one active and three spares, to lead the players, including veterans of the old guard and “ala das baianas”, with a battery of drums at the rear and sometimes a brass section and guitars. This brass section was included in the early 20th century as part of a more diverse musical ensemble that began to be offered at that time.

How did the Rio Carnival come about? The origins of the Rio Carnival celebration date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Carnival was brought to Brazil by the Portuguese colonizers between the 16th and 17th centuries, manifesting itself initially through the ‘Entrudo’, a popular festival where public games and carefree derision ran rampant through the streets. Over time, the festival acquired other ways of expression, such as the use of masks and costumes. O Moleque by Lima Barrett, depicts the emergence of a costume originally used in carnival, tracing its European cultural roots. The costumes are symbolic of the political and cultural themes of the time, which were then integrated into the carnival. The popularization of entertainment among the poor also contributed to the appearance of carnival societies created by the monarchical elite.

In 1840, the first masquerade ball was held in Rio, and polka and waltz were in the center of attention. Later, in the early 20th century, the Samba and Batucada rhythms classically associated with the Rio Carnival were introduced by Afro-Brazilians and Pardos, adapting various cultural inputs to create a new musical genre. During this period, Carnival assumed its position as the most popular festival in Brazil.

During the 1920s and 1930s in Rio, samba schools began to become popular as a way for the blocks to increase their legitimacy and prevent police oppression. Blacks at the time were often harassed by the police for any street carnival activities due to the city’s attempt to become a European-style capital at the time.

There was no carnival in the period from 1915 to 1918, due to the First World War, as well as during the period 1940-1945. because of World War II. This event was once again canceled with strict warnings against clandestine celebrations in 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic in Brazil and postponed to 2022 for similar reasons. The carnival is back with a bang in 2023.

The previously existing traditions of ‘Entrudos’ and other popular festivities such as ‘ranchos’ and ‘Cordao Carnavalesco’ dating back to the Empire would eventually be combined into carnival blocks by the 1920s and evolve into their final form – the samba schools of Rio.

The Estacio de Sa, together with the Portel and the Estacao Primeira de Mangueira, first paraded in the city in 1929. All three were former carnival blocks that were transformed into schools with professional staff and city support. A little later, in 1930, seven schools were already operating in the city. With the works in Avenida Presidente Vargas, the parade moved there, and from 1942 to 1945 the parade was held in Sao Januario.

From 1952, temporary audience stands were assembled annually, and in 1961 paid tickets debuted to take advantage of growing international and national interest and increasing tourist arrivals. In 1974, due to subway construction, the parade was held on Avenida Presidente Antonio Carlos, from where it was also broadcast on color television for the first time. In 1978, the parade was moved to Avenida Marquis de Sapucaya – Sambadrome, where it remains until today. In 1983, the then Governor Leonel Brizola commissioned the architect Oscar Niemeyer to design a permanent local stadium for the parades in the same area, because until then the stands were still temporary and only assembled and disassembled for the event.

With the increase in the number of participating schools making the parade longer and tiring for the public, in 1984 the parade was split into two dates and categories: Friday evening to Saturday morning for the lower schools and Sunday evening to Monday morning for the main schools, including the more recognizable ones. That year, the school of “superchampions” was also announced after the parade of champions that took place the following Saturday, who had been awarded for the best results of the previous competition nights. Since this practice has never been repeated, Mangueira remains the only samba school ever to receive the title and dignity of “superchampions” of the annual event. Portela is the samba school with the highest number of championships.

Special Group schools under LIESA parade on two days (Sunday and Monday), while A series schools parade on Friday and Saturday under LIERJ, which also has a B series, which parades on Holy Tuesday. Both organizations were under the banner of AESCRJ before it lost its organizational rights, which also allowed the establishment of new organizations such as LIESB and Samba e Nosso for lower level divisions. The Golden Division (Serie A) champion school, who progress directly as participants in the Special Group for next year’s carnival parades, run on Carnival Monday, while the Special Group champion parades once more on the Saturday after Ash Wednesday.

As of 2018, the LIESB handed over the management of the E Series and its schools to ACAS, who now manage it as an entry-level organization for samba schools, in 2020, the C Series (Silver Division) fell under a new organization, LIVRES, with LIESB managing the divisions above and below it.

Since the main parade takes place at the Marquis de Sapucai Sambadrome and the balls at the Palace and Copacabana Beach, many carnival participants are in other locations. Street festivals are very common during Carnival and are very populated by locals. Elegance and extravagance are usually left behind, but music and dancing are still extremely common. Anyone can participate in street festivals. The gangs are very familiar with the street carnival, especially since you don’t need anything to join the fun except to jump in. One of the most famous groups in Rio is Banda de Ipanema. Banda de Ipanema first formed in 1965 and is known as Rio’s most outrageous street band.

Rio de Janeiro is “submerged”, almost “invisible” and this appears in full intensity during the carnival. Although it was clearly noticed only during the carnival, this city is occupied (especially in the central part) to a large extent by actors who play, sing and dance in different locations, giving a new meaning to their daily life and their relationship with the public spaces of the city. Incorporated into every aspect of the Rio Carnival are dance and music. The most famous dance at the Brazilian carnival is the samba. The samba remains a popular dance not only at the carnival, but also in the ghettos outside the main cities. These villages keep alive the historical aspect of the game without the influence of western cultures.

Music is another important part of all aspects of carnival. According to Samba City, “The samba carnival instruments are an important part of Brazil and the Rio de Janeiro Carnival, sending out irresistible rhythms and rhythms that explode the audience in a colorful fantasy festival of dance revolution!” The samba found in Rio is the Batucanada. “It was made out of a rhythmic need to allow you to sing, dance and parade at the same time.” This is why the batucado style is found in most of all street carnivals in Rio.

Street parades, blocks and gangs take place throughout the city of Rio during Carnaval, the most famous and largest carnival celebration in the world. More than 300 gangs can happen at any time. While the biggest street party takes place in front of the Sambadrome, the biggest organized street dance is usually found in Cinelandia Square in downtown Rio. During the 2012 Carnival, more than 2 million revelers took to the streets of Rio de Janeiro to participate in the Bloc of Cordão da Bola Preta. According to police estimates, more than 5 million people attended the block during the 2012 Rio Carnival and no crime was reported.

When the Sambadrome was built in 1984, it had the side effect of taking street parades out of the city center into a specific ticketed performance space. Some samba schools have since been motivated by a plan that focuses on reclaiming public space and using the carnival tradition to occupy the streets with parades or blocks. Many of them represent the local community of the area, but they are open to everyone.

Several of Rio’s street carnival blocks that hold parties are affiliated with the Federation of Carnival Blocks of the State of Rio de Janeiro (FBCERJ), founded in 1965.

In the next post, I will write about the Copacabana Palace Hotel, which is a representative of classic Brazilian luxury located in a refreshing natural environment. This exceptional Belmond hotel allows you to relax in the heart of Rio de Janeiro, which you should consider if you decide to visit Rio de Janeiro, the most colorful pearl of the South Atlantic Ocean. My dear adventurers, we have come to the end of this second special travelogue about Rio Carnival in the series of travelogues about Brazil where we had the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of this unusual country in South America. 

Today’s travelogue would not be possible without the selfless help of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism), EMBRATUR (National Tourism Organization of Brazil) – Visit Brasil, Carnaval Experience, Copacabana Palace Belmond Hotel in collaboration with local partners who allowed me to feel the spirit and beauty of local culture and the beauty of everyday life in Rio de Janeiro. Of course, as always, I tried my best to convey to you my impressions of this unusual experience from Brazil.

A person is rich in soul if he has managed to explore the world and I am glad that I always manage to find partners of my projects who help me to discover new and unusual destinations in a completely different way.

It is an honour to have the opportunity to cooperate with many companies and businessmen in the tourism sector and I would like to thank once again the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism), Carnaval Experience and EMBRATUR (National Tourism Organization of Brazil) – Visit Brasil for this incredible adventure and for allowing me to feel the beauty of this unusual Brazilian culture in a completely different way and to feel the beauty of everyday life in Rio de Janeiro.

How did you like my story about Rio Carnival and the presentation of the Brazilian center of entertainment and hedonism that adorns the heart of this unusual country in South America? Have you had the chance to visit Brazil so far?

If you have any question, comment, suggestion or message for me you can write me below in the comments. Of course, as always, you can contact me via email or social networks, all addresses can be found on the CONTACT page. See you at the same place in a few days, with some new story!

With Love from Rio de Janeiro,

Mr.M

This post is sponsored by the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism), EMBRATUR(National Tourism Organization of Brazil) – Visit Brasil, Carnaval Experience, Copacabana Palace Belmond Hotel and other local partners. This post is my personal and honest review of the destination experience.