My dear travellers and lovers of unusual journeys, welcome to the new travelogue on the Mr.M blog. After travelogues from Italy, France, Monaco, the Czech Republic, Austria and Slovakia that won your hearts, it’s time to focus on another underrated pearl of Europe – Poland. Warsaw has been a destination I’ve been putting off for a long time. The Polish capital was not at the top of my list for years and today it is clear to me that I was wrong. I spent five days there and came back with a suitcase full of impressions and unusual memories that I really did not expect.
Before starting today’s travelogue about Warsaw, I want to express my special thanks to the United Nations World Tourism Organization – UN Tourism and the Sheraton Grand Warsaw Hotel for supporting and promoting quality tourism around the world. Their dedication to connecting cultures and destinations is an inspiration to all of us who believe that travel enriches the soul.
Warsaw is a hidden gem of Central Europe and belongs to the Mazovia region. It does not have one square that takes your breath away as soon as you step out of the taxi. Instead, she draws you in slowly, street by street, story by story. When you understand what happened to this city and how it was rebuilt, you start looking at it with different eyes.
In this travelogue, I will take you through everything I visited in the capital of Poland. I wrote it as a guide, but also as a personal diary. You will enjoy historical facts, specific tips for visiting Warsaw, as well as an honest review of the hotel where I stayed.
WHY WARSAW IS ONE OF EUROPE’S MOST UNDERRATED CAPITALS
Warsaw is the largest city in Poland and is home to more than one and a half million people. It has been the capital since the end of the sixteenth century, and today it is also the business heart of the country. That is why two worlds that are rarely so close collide in it.
On one side you have the restored old center with narrow streets and baroque churches. On the other side, there are glass towers that are among the highest in Europe. That difference is not the city’s fault, but its most interesting feature.
In addition, Warsaw is still more affordable than most Western European capitals. The food is great, the public transportation works flawlessly, and the people are friendlier than the rumors tell you. You don’t have to plan for all of this months in advance.
However, the most important reason to come is the one that is not visible in the photos. This city was practically wiped off the face of the earth, so people rebuilt it with their own hands. When you know that, each facade gets a different weight.
WARSAW’S HISTORY: HOW POLAND’S CAPITAL ROSE FROM THE ASHES
Warsaw has not always been the capital of Poland. That role has long belonged to Kraków, which was both the royal capital and the place of coronation. The upheaval came at the end of the sixteenth century, during the reign of King Sigismund the Third Vasa.
The king moved the court to Warsaw, and the city thus got a completely new destiny. His son, Vladislav the Fourth, later erected a monument to his father that still stands today on the Castle Square. That column is the oldest secular monument in the city.
The following two centuries brought prosperity to Warsaw, but also heavy blows. The city was plundered by the Swedes, divided by its neighbors, and Poland disappeared from the map of Europe for a long time. Despite this, Warsaw remained the cultural center of the nation.
The nineteenth century brought Russian control and a slow, stubbornly resistant urban culture. In that period, some of the most beautiful classicist buildings that we visit today were created. Independence returned only after the First World War, but only briefly.
WARSAW IN WORLD WAR II: THE TRAGEDY THAT CHANGED THE CITY FOREVER
This is the part of the story that you must understand before you set foot in the old center. During the war, and especially after the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the city was systematically destroyed. The historical core was almost completely destroyed.
According to UNESCO data, more than eighty-five percent of the historic city center was destroyed. Certain sources for the Staro miasto itself state a percentage of about ninety-five. Empty facades, piles of bricks and streets without houses remained.
The decision to rebuild was already made in January 1945, before the dust had settled. Polish architects and conservators worked according to old plans, paintings and photographs. They also used the vedutes of Bernard Bellot, known as Canaletto.
The result is unique in the world. In 1980, on the second of September to be exact, the historic center of Warsaw was registered on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It was the thirtieth entry on that list, not because of its age, but because of the scale of the renovation.
WARSAW OLD TOWN: THE HISTORIC SQUARE REBORN FROM THE RUINS
The first morning I started in the Old Square, the heart of the Old Town. The houses around the square have those rich colors that immediately catch the eye: ocher, brick, gray, pale blue. Tables spread under the awning of the restaurant, and pots with muscats stand in a row.
Stop for a moment and take a closer look. Everything you see was built after 1945, brick by brick. However, it does not act as a backdrop, but as a living neighborhood in which people still live today.
On one side of the square is the Warsaw Museum, housed in a row of connected civic houses. If you have an hour, come in. There you will best understand how complex the restoration was.
From there, I walked along the narrow streets towards Zapiecko and Svetojanska. These streets are touristy, but they have the right measure. The facades are decorated with reliefs of lions, eagles and saints, and forged firms hang above the doors.
Tip: come before nine in the morning or after seven in the evening. Then the square breathes differently, and the photos are incomparably better. In the middle of the day, it’s as crowded as you’d expect in August.
WARSAW’S ROYAL HEART: CASTLE SQUARE, SIGISMUND’S COLUMN AND THE ROYAL CASTLE
Castle Square is where Warsaw’s Old Town meets the Royal Tract. In the middle stands a column with the figure of King Sigismund the Third Vasa, erected in 1644. The founder was his son, King Vladislav IV.
It is interesting that it was the first monument of this kind in modern Europe dedicated to a secular figure. The authors of the conceptual solution were Augustin Loki and Constantino Tencala, and the model of the figure was made by Clemente Molly. After the war, the pillar was erected again in 1949.
On the eastern side of the square rises the Royal Castle with its distinctive tower and clock. The building was destroyed during the war, and its reconstruction was delayed for decades for political reasons. The castle was rebuilt in the seventies and eighties, and was partially opened to visitors in 1981.
I visited the square twice, during the day and in the evening. It is more beautiful in the evening, because the lighting brings out the colors from the facades. During the summer evenings, large light installations with the name of the city are installed here, around which families gather.
WARSAW BARBICAN: WALKING ALONG THE CITY’S MEDIEVAL WALLS
A few minutes north of the Old Square stands the Barbican, a brick fortification with round towers. It was built in 1548, according to the project of Jan Baptista from Venice. It was supposed to defend the northern entrance to the city.
The irony is that it almost never served a purpose. It was used more seriously only twice, in 1656 and 1704. Meanwhile, artillery developed faster than walls.
The Barbican was also rebuilt after the war, between 1952 and 1954. The builders relied on graphics from the seventeenth century. The walls still contain original bricks from the sixteenth century.
Take a walk along the path along the walls, along the bottom of the former moat. From below you can see how high the fortification really is. On the way to Podval, painters exhibit their works, so this is a pleasant place to rest.
WARSAW’S ROYAL ROUTE: THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WALK IN THE CITY
The royal route is a tract that connects Castle Square with the south of the city. It consists of the Kraków suburb and Novi svet street, and continues towards Lazyenki and Vilanov. This is a walk I would recommend to anyone.
I left in the morning, coffee in hand. The street is wide, with low buildings and many trees. Every hundred meters you come across a palace, church or monument.
In the evening, the New World changes completely. The gardens are filling up, the lamps are lit, and people are walking leisurely in the middle of the sidewalk. From one end of the street you can see the tower of the basilica, and from the other the outline of the Castle Square.
CHOPIN’S HEART IN WARSAW: THE STORY BEHIND THE HOLY CROSS CHURCH
The Basilica of the Holy Cross on the outskirts of Krakow is one of the most important places in Warsaw. An urn with Frederic Chopin’s heart was built into one of the pillars of the main nave. The composer died in Paris, and his last wish was fulfilled by his sister Ludvika.
The white marble epitaph was made by Leonard Marconi, and was unveiled on March 5, 1880. In the same church rests the heart of the writer Vladislav Raymont, since 1929. The interior is solemn, with gilded altars and cut glass chandeliers.
In front of the entrance stands a dark figure of Christ carrying a cross, with the inscription SVRSVM CORDA. The scene is powerful and without any knowledge of history. Enter in silence, because this is an active parish church.
WARSAW: COPERNICUS, CHOPIN AND THE UNIVERSITY AT THE HEART OF THE CITY
Right next to the basilica is the Stašić Palace with a green dome. In front of her sits a bronze Nicolaus Copernicus with an armillary sphere in his hands. The monument is the work of the Danish sculptor Bertel Torvaldsen and was discovered in 1830.
Across the street is the main gate of the University of Warsaw, with a gilded eagle on a forged arch. Behind the gate opens a quiet courtyard with the Casimir Palace, where the university was located in 1817. The Warsaw Lyceum used to be here.
A few steps away is the church of visiting sisters. The young Chopin played on her organ in 1825 and 1826, as a lyceum organist. This church is one of the few in Warsaw that survived the war unscathed.
On the same stretch, you will also see the Presidential Palace, in front of which Prince Josif Ponjatovski is riding. There is also a monument to Adam Mickiewicz, surrounded by a rose garden. A little further, on Malachovski Square, stands the evangelical church in the form of a rotunda, where the sixteen-year-old Chopin also performed.
WARSAW’S PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE: THE BUILDING THAT DIVIDES THE CITY
No building evokes as many different feelings as the Palace of Culture and Science. Construction began on May 1, 1952, and the building was handed over on July 21, 1955. It was a gift of the Soviet Union to the Polish people.
It was designed by the Soviet architect Lav Rudniev, based on the Moscow towers. With the antenna support, it is 237 meters high and has 42 floors. Inside there are more than three thousand rooms, theaters, museums, a cinema and a swimming pool.
The lookout point is on the thirtieth floor, at a height of 114 meters. From there you can see almost the whole city, including the new business towers. An old Warsaw joke says that it is the most beautiful view in the city, because it is the only place from which the palace itself cannot be seen.
For many Poles, this building remains a symbol of foreign rule. For others, it is simply part of the city’s identity, nicknamed Beijing. In 2007, it was entered into the register of cultural monuments, which caused a new debate.
I photographed it from several sides, and the best angle is the one from the Defile Square in the late afternoon. Then the light falls obliquely and highlights the stone details.
WARSAW’S NEW SKYLINE: GLASS, HEIGHT AND AMBITION
A veritable grove of skyscrapers has been built around the palace in recent years. The highest is Warsaw, with 310 meters including the needle. It is currently the tallest building in the European Union, and it was designed by Foster and Partners.
Not far from there stands Zlota 44, a residential tower with an unusual shape. Its author is Daniel Libeskind, and the building is 192 meters high. Many people see a sail in its outline, so they call it that.
Around the United Nations Roundabout and the Zlote Terase shopping center, everything is modern and busy. Here you will see another Warsaw, the business one. For me, this contrast was one of the most interesting parts of the trip.
A few steps away, near the Square of the Three Crosses, there are also shops of large fashion houses. The neighborhood around Mokotovska Street is full of independent boutiques and cafes. If you love fashion, stay here for at least half a day.
ŁAZIENKI PARK, WARSAW: A ROYAL OASIS IN THE HEART OF THE CITY
Łazienki is my favorite place in Warsaw. This park occupies about 76 hectares and is the former summer estate of King Stanisław August Poniatowski. Today it is an open-air museum complex.
I entered through the gate from Ujazdovsky alej and immediately slowed down. Paths lead past lakes, bridges and sculptures. Peacocks walk the lawns as if they have been hired.
The park is so big that it’s easy to get lost, and in the most beautiful way. Allow half a day for a leisurely tour. Bring water and comfortable shoes.
CHOPIN CONCERTS IN WARSAW: MUSIC UNDER THE OPEN SKY OF ŁAZIENKI PARK
The most famous monument in the park is dedicated to Frederic Chopin. The composer sits under a stylized willow whose branches resemble a pianist’s hand. It is the work of sculptor Vaclav Szymanovski and was discovered in 1926.
The Germans destroyed the monument already in 1940, as one of the first in the city. A faithful reconstruction was placed in the same place in 1958. Since then, free weekly concerts have been held under it, from May to the end of September.
If you are traveling in the summer, coordinate your arrival with a Sunday. People sit on benches and blankets around the pond. The atmosphere is relaxed and the music is excellent.
WARSAW’S ŁAZIENKI PARK: PALACES, ORANGERIES AND PEACOCKS
There are close to forty buildings in the park, ten of which have great historical value. The old orangery with a series of arched windows houses a collection of sculptures and a historic court theater. In front of it are statues on high pedestals.
The Mišljevic castle with rounded wings seems intimate and warm. Not far from there is the White House, and through the green you can see the Belvedere with the Polish flag on the roof. In the park you will also find a bust of General Boleslav Vjenjava Dlugoševski.
The most beautiful scene for me was the one from the pond towards the Belvedere. The meadow climbs up the slope, and the white facade peeks out between the treetops. I spent twenty minutes there without a single photo.
WILANÓW PALACE: THE POLISH VERSAILLES IN WARSAW
The Wilanów Palace is about ten kilometers from the center. It was built between 1681 and 1696 for King Jan the Third Sobieski and his wife Maria Casimir. The project was led by Augustin Loki, and the side wings were added between 1723 and 1729.
The palace survived the wars in better condition than most Warsaw buildings. Today, it houses the Museum of the Palace of King Jan III. In 1994, the entire complex was declared a historical monument.
The facade is yellow, with white reliefs, golden details and clocks on the towers. Behind the palace are baroque gardens with fountains, a rose garden and strictly trimmed hedges. Modern sculptures are placed between the green walls, which works unexpectedly well.
For me, Vilanov was the most beautiful afternoon of the trip. The crowd is less than in the center, and the space is huge. Allow three to four hours for a tour of the palace and gardens, including travel.
The easiest way to get to Vilanov is by city bus from Trakt kraljevski. The drive takes about half an hour, depending on traffic. Tickets for the gardens and the interior are purchased separately, so check opening times before you go.
THREE CROSSES SQUARE: A GLIMPSE INTO MY WARSAW NEIGHBORHOOD
I stayed at Three Cross Square, and it turned out to be a great decision. The square is one of the most prestigious places in the city, at the very beginning of Novi svet street. Almost everywhere can be reached on foot from here.
In the middle of the square stands the church of St. Alexander, built between 1818 and 1825. It was designed by Christian Petar Aigner, based on the Roman Pantheon. After war destruction, it was rebuilt between 1949 and 1952, in its original classicist form.
Around the square are ministries, embassies and boutiques of world fashion houses. There are cafes on the corners that smell of fresh pastries in the morning. I walked about thirty minutes to the Old Town, and fifteen to Łazienki Park, or the Royal Baths Park.
SHERATON GRAND WARSAW: MY BASE FOR EXPLORING THE CITY
I stayed at the Sheraton Grand Warsaw Hotel, on Boleslava Prusa Street number two. The building was designed between 1994 and 1996 by Tadeus Spihala and Petar Šarošik. The hotel was officially opened on September 22, 1996, and it welcomed its first guests already in May of that year.
Today, this five-star hotel has 350 rooms and suites. The interiors were designed by London-based architect Alex Kravets, and it is immediately noticeable. The hall is spacious, with wooden panelling, rounded sofas and soft lighting.
SHERATON GRAND WARSAW: INSIDE MY EXECUTIVE SUITE
I stayed in the Executive Suite and I can say that the space is its biggest advantage. The apartment is divided into a living room and a bedroom, with a door between them. In the living area there is a sofa, a dining table for four people and a real desk.
The bedroom has a king-size bed, an upholstered wall covering behind the headboard and a mirror to the side. The windows go almost to the floor, so you have a lot of light in the morning. From my side I could see the roofs and the tower of the Palace of Culture and Science.
The bathroom is classic, with a bathtub and a separate shower. It’s not the most modern I’ve seen, but it’s impeccably maintained. The bedding and mattress deserve a special mention, as I slept great all four nights.
SHERATON GRAND WARSAW: BEAUTY OF THE CLUB LOUNGE ON THE SIXTH FLOOR
The club lounge is located on the sixth floor and is the real reason to take this room category. Throughout the day there are hot and cold drinks, fruit and small snacks. In the early evening, a cold dinner is served with several hot side dishes.
The space is quiet, with comfortable armchairs and a view of the city. The staff remembers the guests on the second day. For me, it was the perfect spot for a morning coffee before heading out.
SHERATON GRAND WARSAW: DINING AT INAZIA AND CUCINA MIA
The hotel has two restaurants and I had the opportunity to enjoy both. Cucina Mia is open all day and offers Italian cuisine, from made-to-order breakfast to dinner. The atmosphere is relaxed, suitable for a business lunch.
inAzia is an evening restaurant of Asian cuisine and its trump card is the cuisine of chef Marcin Sasin. The emphasis is on seafood and meat from the robata grill. I had octopus salad, smoke in a bamboo basket, and shrimp spring rolls.
All three items were perfectly seasoned and beautifully served. The prices are at the level of a five-star hotel, but the quality-price ratio is fair. Reserve a table in advance, as the restaurant is also used by guests outside the hotel.
WHAT TO EAT IN WARSAW: THE POLISH DISHES YOU NEED TO TRY
Polish cuisine is generous and affordable. Pies are a must, whether you have them with potatoes and cheese or with meat. You will find them in restaurants on Stari trg and in small bars outside the center.
Also try žurek, a sour soup that is sometimes served with bread. Bigos, a cabbage and meat stew, is perfect for colder days. Meat lovers will order Warsaw-style cutlet, breaded and thinly battered.
For dessert, there is a ponchi, a donut filled with rose jam. Coffee is a serious topic in Warsaw, and the offer of special cafeterias is surprisingly good. You will find the best addresses in the Kraków suburbs and in the Powišle district.
In the evening, it is worth crossing the Vistula and seeing Praga. That part of the city was not destroyed in the war, so it has a different character. There are also many young restaurants and bars.
WARSAW TRAVEL TIPS: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
BEST TIME TO VISIT WARSAW: WHEN SHOULD YOU GO?
I was at the end of summer and the weather was changeable. There were both sun and clouds, sometimes in the same hour. That’s why I recommend a light jacket even in August.
May, June and September are the best months in my opinion. The parks are in full bloom then, and the crowds are tolerable. Winter can be harsh, but December brings beautiful holiday markets.
HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU NEED IN WARSAW?
Three days are enough for a basic tour. For a calm rhythm, as I had, count four to five days. A trip to Vilanov and half a day in Lazjenki allows for that much time.
If you only have a weekend, choose the Old Town, Trakt kraljevski and the observation deck at the Palace of Culture. Leave the rest for next time. You can’t get around the city in one sitting anyway.
HOW TO GET AROUND WARSAW: THE BEST WAYS TO EXPLORE THE CITY
Warsaw has a metro, trams and buses, and they all work reliably. Tickets are valid for all means of transport, and timed tickets are the most cost-effective. Route planner apps work great in English too.
The center of Warsaw is still the best for walking. It took me about half an hour’s easy walk from the Square of the Three Crosses to the Old Town. Frédéric Chopin Airport is connected to the center by train and bus, and the journey takes a short time.
A few more little things that help. Card payment is accepted almost everywhere, so cash is not necessary. Museums have days with free entry, but check the dates on the website before arriving.
WHY WARSAW IS WORTH VISITING: THE CITY THAT DESERVES YOUR ATTENTION
Warsaw surprised me in a way that I rarely experience. I expected a gray, business town without a soul. I got a capital that has both history and energy, and doesn’t pretend to be important.
What remains the longest is not any single building. The feeling remains that this city refused to disappear. People raised it from the ruins because they could not imagine life without it.
That’s why every renovated facade here means more than it seems. It is not just a copy of the old one. She is proof that a city can be more stubborn than war.
The Sheraton Grand Warsaw proved to be the perfect starting point for such a trip. A hotel that offers the comfort of urban life located in the heart of the city on a square that itself is witness to a renewal. If you are planning a trip to Warsaw, feel free to put this address at the Square of the Three Crosses at the top of your list.
This was another letter from Poland. The next one is coming soon, and until then follow me on Instagram for more scenes from the capital that built itself. I will definitely come back again, because this city quietly but surely finds its way to your heart!
With Love from Warsaw,
Mr.M
This post is sponsored by the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UN Tourism) and the Sheraton Grand Warsaw hotel, as well as other local partners who selflessly supported this project. This post is my personal and honest review of the destination experience.