My dear fashionistas, welcome to a new fashion story on Mr.M’s blog. Milan is a city that should be felt, a definite experience in life that should not be missed. Milan is the city of my youth, I remember as a student when I came to Italy to study, Milan was the city where my dreams came true and where I learned that you should not limit yourself but constantly search for new and bigger dreams and set yourself different challenges until you reach the desired goal. Every time I stand in Piazza Duomo, I have the feeling that I am again the young Marco at the tender age of 19, who has come to look for my place under the Lombardy sun. It was the same this time, the Duomo bathed in the sun and thousands of people pass by me, and I stop and absorb the atmosphere of urban Milan.
This time I am here as part of my European tour in collaboration with UN Tourism. Milan is a city I adore, especially because of the way it combines the old and the new. On one side stands a Gothic cathedral more than six centuries old, and on the other stretches the fashion quadrilateral. The beauty of this city lies precisely in this contrast.
For today’s outfit, I decided on something that reflects exactly that Milanese spirit. I brought together four brands from different worlds, but they all share the same commitment to detail and quality. A Giorgio Armani beige cashmere turtleneck, Enfants Riches Déprimés wide leather trousers, a French Briston watch with a leather bracelet and Italian Santoni sneakers are all part of a new fashion story that I want to share with you.
Each of these pieces has its own soul, its own history and its own creator who believes in something more than just a piece of clothing. That’s the reason I chose them.
ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS: THE PUNK SPIRIT IN THE WINGS OF LUXURY
If there’s a brand that perfectly describes my mood today, it’s definitely the Enfants Riches Déprimés Leather Pants. The name translated from French means “depressed rich kids”, which already says enough about the philosophy of this unique design name.
The brand was founded in 2012, and behind it stands conceptual artist Henry Alexander Levy. In 2012, Mr. Levy founded ERD as an avant-garde fashion collective, with the intention of creating a French punk fashion line based on the movements of the late seventies and the Japanese avant-garde movements of the eighties. This approach makes ERD completely different from anything you will find on the market.
My pants are made of soft, shiny dark brown leather that moves with the body. The wide, slightly pleated cut gives the impression of relaxed elegance. Details like accented pockets and slightly tapered legs look like they were drawn by an artist’s hand. When I wear them, I feel relaxed and sophisticated at the same time.
The brand has expanded and today has two flagship boutiques, the first opened in 2019 in the Marais district of Paris, and the second in 2025 in the Gangnam district of Seoul. This expansion speaks to the global appeal of the brand, but Henry always remains true to the original idea of exclusivity.
Pieces typically range in price from two to over seven thousand dollars, reflecting a commitment to craftsmanship and limited production runs. It’s no accident. Henry consciously creates what he calls “isolating objects”, pieces that do not belong to the masses, but to those who understand them.
ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS: HENRY ALEXANDER LEVY AND THE PHILOSOPHY OF “ELITE PUNK”
Henry’s story is fascinating. He was born on July 14, 1991 in Atlanta, which is an interesting date because it falls on the same day as the fall of the Bastille in Paris. He grew up in a wealthy family, and in his youth he spent years in Swiss boarding schools and European schools. Punk music marked him at the age of eleven, when he discovered the Sex Pistols and the Klesh.
“I’m drawn to the isolation of objects,” Levy explains. “A lot of people make communal objects, objects that people can identify with in a broader sense… I’m interested in making what I call isolating objects.” This philosophy permeates every stitch, every detail, every decision he makes.
The brand is home to a whole host of celebrities. Loyal customers include musicians such as Jared Leto, Kanye West, Rihanna and Travis Scott. Among them there are also our regional fans who find this inaccessibility attractive.
The most interesting thing is that Henry considers himself first and foremost an artist. He often presents ERD collections in the most prestigious galleries. The spring/summer 2018 pre-collection was presented at Christie’s in Paris, marking the first time that a fashion house has shown a collection at this historic auction house founded in 1766. For the spring collection of 2025, he even chose the space of Sotheby’s in Paris.
Levi draws inspiration from unexpected sources. There are painters like Robert Motherwell, Si Twombly and Antonio Tapiez. There are also Japanese designers Rei Kawakubo and Yoji Yamamoto. It combines art, music, literature and fashion in a way that no one else can.
OUTFIT
Turtleneck: Giorgio Armani
Watch: Briston
Leather Trousers: Enfants Riches Déprimés
Sneakers: Santoni
GIORGIO ARMANI ROLKA: ITALIAN POETRY IN KASHMIR
Giorgio Armani‘s beige cashmere turtleneck is the centerpiece of my outfit today. The embossed handwork on the knit gives a texture that plays with the light throughout the day. Cashmere is warm, soft and incredibly comfortable against the skin.
What I love about this roller is its discretion. It is not offensive, but it attracts attention in a sophisticated way. It just exists in its elegance and lets the fine structure of the knit work for itself. The small Armani logo on the lower part is the only recognizable sign of the brand, which represents a true commitment to quiet luxury.
Giorgio Armani is a legend of Italian fashion. His name is synonymous with elegance that transcends trends. The fashion house has existed since 1975, and Đorđo was active in the creation of each collection until the last days of his life. His philosophy of minimalism and elegance changed the way a man can dress.
The cashmere used in this roll comes from the finest sources. The fibers are carefully selected for length, fineness and softness. The knitting is then done using a technique that combines machine work and manual finishing. The relief structure is created precisely by that manual intervention that gives character to the piece.
ARMANI AND MILANO: A HALF-CENTURY LONG LOVE STORY
Milan is to Armani what Paris is to Chanel. The city where he started his empire. The place where he defined what it means to be an Italian gentleman in the modern world.
“My relationship with this city never stops evolving,” said Giorgio Armani. “When I opened Emporio Armani in Milan more than twenty years ago on Via Manzoni, which I then called Armani/Manzoni 31, it was a rather austere place on the farthest street of the Quadrilatera”.
The very location of the Armani Hotel in Milan speaks of the importance of the city. The hotel is located in Via Manzoni 31, the most exclusive district of the city, surrounded by options that offer guests an authentic Milanese experience. Streets full of designer shops are just around the corner. Everything is within easy reach Teatro la Scala, Pinacoteca Brera and of course, like the cathedral itself.
All 95 spacious rooms and suites of the hotel display the unique Armani style such as the signature beige, gray and ivory tones. Same colors, same philosophy, same approach to detail that I just wore today. Everything is part of one big story that Armani has been telling its customers for decades.
Đorđo was also a visionary of architecture. In 1937, he bought a building in the rationalist style and turned it into a sanctuary of fashion. The restaurant on the seventh floor offers a view that includes the Duomo and the futuristic skyscrapers of Porta Nuova. A fusion of past and future, just like Milan itself.
BRISTON STREAMLINER KENNEDY AUTO: A FRENCH GIFT TO THE ART DECO ERA
On my wrist I wear a watch that attracts attention with its shape. The Briston Streamliner Kennedy Auto combines the elegance of the Art Deco era with a modern mechanism. The square shape of the case immediately evokes famous watches from the beginning of the twentieth century.
The vertical brushed stainless steel case measures 36 by 36 millimeters and is 10 millimeters thick. The sides of the case are made of tortoiseshell acetate, which looks and feels like real tortoiseshell. Those side panels are attached with visible screws which gives the watch an industrial charm.
The crown at twelve o’clock is an absolutely unique detail. The crown sits on the top of the watch with a broad knurling set into the case, topped with a lapis lazuli cabochon. That blue jewel shines under the Milanese sun and gives the watch something royal.
The dial is double-layered, which gives it a depth that I rarely see in watches of this price range. The Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and the remaining Arabic numerals have been cut out, with a silver-white background peeking through. The center piece has a nice guilloché pattern and railway minute and second scales.
The hands in the dauphine style are brushed steel, with inserts of Super-LumiNova C1 mass. This means the watch glows in the dark, which is a handy detail for travelers like me.
The movement that powers this watch is a Miyota 9039 with 24 jewels, 28,800 oscillations per hour and a power reserve of 42 hours. High class Japanese movement, automatic of course, with beats that I can feel when I hold the watch still.
Originally the watch has a black leather strap, but I decided to use a dark brown croco strap from the same brand. It goes so perfectly with the rest of my look. The quick change bracelet system is great and allows you to adapt to the mood or the occasion.
BRISTON BRAND AND VISION OF BRICE JAUNET
Behind this brand is the French founder Brice Jaunet. His story is inspiring and shows how passion can turn into business success.
Briston is an independent French watch brand conceived in June 2013 by Bris Jaune. Nurtured from an early age by an entrepreneurial spirit, especially that of his grandfather Jacques, the founder of the NewMan brand in 1967, Brice has always had the ambition to revive his creativity.
Before starting his own brand, Brice spent fifteen years at the biggest watchmaking houses. After 15 years of experience in the watch industry, which took him from Cartier to Zenith, through Baume & Mercier and Raymond Weil, the project came to life in 2012 in collaboration with Swiss designer friends.
What sets Briston apart is the use of materials from other industries. Tortoiseshell acetate was previously used exclusively for eyeglass frames. The Clubmaster collection broke the ice with a tortoiseshell acetate case, previously only used in optics. A noble, natural material that gives Briston watches a distinctive look.
The philosophy of the brand is “British spirit with French refinement”. The Briston watch stands out for its fundamentally watchmaking DNA and sporty-chic spirit. It is the “British” spirit that the English have mastered perfectly, from Oxford campuses to polo fields and rowing races.
The Streamliner Kennedy Collection is a tribute to John F. Kennedy and his wife, Jackie. It is inspired by the Art Deco era of the early 20th century, with the traditional Ivy League style worn by the Kennedys before and during his presidency.
SANTONI OLY SNEAKERS: ART FROM THE HEART OF ITALY
On my feet I am wearing my favorite sneakers for this season, Santoni‘s recognisable Oly model sneakers in dark brown flipped leather. The caramel-colored rubber sole gives the sneakers a vintage character that goes perfectly with the leather pants.
The details of the build are something you have to see live to understand. The stitching is precise, the leather is rich and soft, and the shape of the sneaker follows the anatomy of the foot. The laces are just the right thickness, not too thin to look cheap, not too thick to be distracting.
The sneakers are designed as modern successors to classic German trainers from the sixties. The shape is sporty, but the materials and workmanship put them in the luxury category. They can be worn with formal trousers as well as jeans, which I often do.
Dark brown tumbled leather is seasonally ideal. It does not show dirt easily, and the palette of tones makes it possible to combine with almost any color. I especially love how they go with the warm earthy tones I’m wearing this season.
ANDREA AND GIUSEPPE SANTONI: A FAMILY HERITAGE OF ITALIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP
Santoni is a brand whose name I see more and more on the feet of men who know what they wear. The story behind the brand is typically Italian family, passionate and dedicated to the craft.
After nearly 20 years of experience in shoemaking, Andrea Santoni decided to open his own workshop in 1975 to produce high-end luxury men’s shoes, inspired by the philosophy of Italian craftsmanship. From a small workshop at the beginning, to a large company with almost 500 employees.
The location was not chosen by chance. The Marche region in central Italy is the historic center of the shoe industry. Today, more than 400 shoemakers work in the Santoni atelier in Corridonia. Senior artisans, employed by the company since its inception, are tasked with training younger generations in complex skills such as hand cutting, hand sewing and hand dyeing.
The son of the founder leads the brand into the world today. Giuseppe Santoni was born in 1968. At a very young age, he began traveling the world to follow the international expansion of the brand. He successfully opened new markets in Japan, China, Northern Europe and Russia.
The “everything under one roof” philosophy is what sets Santoni apart from many luxury brands. Andrea believes in the philosophy of keeping everything “under one roof”, in order to guarantee quality and perfection, and to pass on the authentic techniques of the most experienced craftsmen to younger shoemakers.
The brand also cooperates with houses of different industries. In collaboration with the IWC Schaffhausen brand, he is working on leather bracelets for wristwatches instead of leather shoes. A combination of leather craft and watchmaking, which makes me particularly happy considering the watch chosen today.
A FASHIONABLE OUTFIT THAT OVERCOME THE TREND
When I look at this outfit as a whole, I see four worlds coming together in one story. The Italian poetry of Giorgio Armani. Paris punk Henri Alexander Levi. The sporty elegance of Brice Jaune and finally the family craft of the Santoni family.
A beige cashmere turtleneck serves as a warm contrast to the cool shiny leather of the pants. The dark brown tone of the pants, watch bracelet and sneakers creates a unique palette of earthy tones. The details are there to make the difference guilloché watch face, handwork on roll knit, stitching on sneakers.
It all has one common thread: commitment to detail and authenticity. None of these brands followed trends. Each of them defined their own path and built an identity that we recognize from afar.
Fashion commentators would call this “quiet luxury” but I would add another layer. This is luxury with a soul. Luxury that does not shout but whispers stories to those who know how to listen. That’s exactly why I love combinations like this and that’s why I believe you will like them too.
DUOMO AS A FASHION RUNWAY OF BIG DREAMS
Duomo square in Milan is not an ordinary square. The construction of the cathedral began in 1386 under Gian Galeazzo Visconti, Duke of Milan, and various artists, sculptors and Milanese themselves participated in its construction, because those who could not pay for the construction offered their work.
Six centuries of construction. Think about that for a moment. Generations of craftsmen, architects and workers have left their mark on this building. Thousands of artists, sculptors and specialized workers were involved in the construction of the Milan Cathedral.
The cathedral is the largest and most complex Gothic building in Italy, made of pink and white marble from Candolji, a quarry dedicated exclusively to the construction of the Milan Cathedral. Marble has that specific tone that changes color during the day from morning pink to midday whitish.
Adorned with 34,000 statues, 135 towers and 55 stained glass windows, the Duomo showcases centuries of craftsmanship and artistry. On the highest tower stands a golden statue of the Madonna, patroness of Milan, which according to tradition must always be the highest point of the city.
Standing in front of this cathedral with the set I’m wearing, I feel a connection to the tradition of Italian craftsmanship. Marble masters who carved statues. Tailors who made clothes for the Milanese nobility. Shoemakers who made shoes for walking on the same stone. All of that still lives on today.
WHAT TO WEAR WITH LEATHER PANTS: PRACTICAL TIPS
Before I end, I would like to share with you some practical tips about wearing leather pants. As a piece of clothing, leather pants can be a challenge, but with the right approach they become a universal wardrobe staple.
The first rule is texture contrast. The smooth, shiny leather of the pants calls for soft, comfortable fabrics on the upper. That’s why I chose a cashmere roll, the contrast between the hard leather and the soft knit makes the look interesting. The combination with a cotton shirt also works great.
The second rule is the palette. Dark brown leather pants leave room for the warmer tones of the top. Beige, ivory, cream, all those colors create harmony. Avoid stark contrasts like pure white or black, unless you want a deliberately striking look.
The third rule is footwear. Sneakers in the same color family elongate the pant line and make you look taller. Closed-toe shoes in flip-up leather, loafers, or even elegant designs also work. Avoid sports trainers with eye-catching details.
The fourth rule is accessories. A quality watch, fine leather belt and discreet jewelry complete the look. Less is more when you’re wearing a strong centerpiece like this. Let the pants and the texture of the skirt speak for themselves.
ITALIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP: MORE THAN JUST A PRODUCT
When I talk about Santoni sneakers and an Armani roll, I can’t help but mention the wider context of Italian craftsmanship. For centuries, Italy has been home to the greatest masters in every field, from the tailors of Naples to the shoemakers of Marche, from the watchmakers who work for luxury houses to the tanners of Tuscany. All this constitutes a unique cultural heritage that is passed down from generation to generation.
I have visited workshops in Italy many times during my career. What always amazes me is the patience that craftsmen put into each piece. When you see how a shoemaker spends days making a pair of shoes, you understand why the prices of luxury pieces seem high. It’s not just materials, it’s time, knowledge and passion.
Andrea Santoni is the type of man who still stays in touch with his master shoemakers, who have since taken over most of Andrea’s business. That’s something you rarely see in the fashion industry, which is increasingly controlled by investment funds and marketing.
What makes the Italian craft special is the attitude towards the young generations. Apprentices study for years with masters before they start working independently. That knowledge cannot be learned from books or from the Internet. It must pass from hand to hand, just as it was done a hundred years ago.
BRISTON: THE DETAILS THAT MAKE THE DIFFERENCE
I will return to my watch one more time, as this piece deserves some extra attention. The polished back has a round aperture through which the mechanism can be seen. It’s a detail I love about a watch that allows you to see the heart beating.
The water resistance of the watch is 50 meters. It’s quite adequate for rain, hand washing or light swimming, but it’s not a diving watch. For that, Briston has other models from the Clubmaster Diver line, but that’s a story for another article.
In 2023, on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of its establishment, Briston presented a watch with a Swiss mechanism for the first time in its history. It’s the Streamliner Urban 10th anniversary edition. Until then, the brand used Japanese Miyota movements, which is not necessarily a disadvantage. Miyota produces high-quality movements that compete with many Swiss calibers.
Today, the brand has its own boutique in Paris, in the Marais district, at 24 rue de Poitou. I visited it during one of my visits to Paris and I can say that the experience is special. The whole atmosphere breathes that “British” spirit that Briston nurtures with wooden shelves, leather, brass and of course, clocks arranged like small art exhibits.
The price of the Streamliner Kennedy Auto model is around 915 euros, which makes it one of the best-looking automatic dress watches under a thousand euros. For this money, you get a unique design, a quality automatic movement and materials you don’t see every day.
HOW TO KEEP MAINTAIN OF PIECES LIKE THIS
Investing in quality pieces of clothing also means taking the responsibility to take care of them properly. Each of these four products requires attention that goes beyond ordinary washing in the washing machine.
For the Giorgio Armani cashmere roll, I recommend hand washing in cold water with a special shampoo for wool. After washing, gently wring it out without twisting it and dry it on a towel. Never hang it on a hanger, the weight of wet cashmere will deform the shape.
Enfants Riches Déprimés leather trousers must never be machine washed. I use a wet cloth and mild leather soap to remove stains. Once every few months I apply a leather conditioner to keep the material soft and prevent cracking. When I’m not wearing them, I store them on a hanger with wide shoulders.
The Briston watch should be cleaned occasionally with a soft cloth, especially the leather bracelet. Acetate sides are resistant, but I avoid contact with perfumes and chemicals. I replace the leather bracelet when it wears out, which with quality leather is usually only after a few years of daily wear.
For Santoni sneakers, I use a special brush for flipped leather. I remove dry dirt with a brush in one direction. For heavier stains, I use a special eraser for rolled leather. Humidity is the worst enemy when I get caught in the rain, I dry them away from a direct heat source.
WHY DOES MILANO REMAIN IN THE HEART FOREVER?
I end this fashion story by thinking about all the reasons why I always come back to Milan. The city is a true paradise for those who love fashion, design and authentic Italian life. Every walk is an inspiration. Every meal is a story. Every encounter is a new lesson.
During my collaborations with luxury hotels and brands in this beautiful capital, I learned an important lesson. Italians don’t wear clothes, they live them. The difference is essential. When Milanese puts on a Giorgio Armani skater, he doesn’t think about what people will think. He just knows he’s dressed for the day ahead.
Next week I have a new trip waiting for me as part of this interesting tour, but Milan always remains in my mind, especially the Duomo square, which I return to every time like an old friend. Maybe one day you and I will meet there, around noon, coffee in hand in front of one of the countless cafes in the square.
Until next time, stay true to your style. Choose pieces that have a story. Wear what you love, not what others impose on you. True luxury lives in the details, in knowing what you are wearing and in respecting the artisans behind each piece.
I’ve learned over the years that fashion combinations aren’t just about Instagram aesthetics. They are about self-confidence, about the story we tell the world about ourselves. Each piece from today’s set carries its own energy and history. By merging these different worlds, I created a look that is both relaxed and sophisticated, classic and modern, Italian and French.
See you soon with new adventures, new destinations and new fashion stories. Milan is now the closed chapter of this tour for me, but like all good stories, there is always a place to continue.
How did you like my outfit today? I really tried to prepare this post with lots of love and I hope you like it! If you have any questions, comments, suggestions or messages for me, you can write me below in the comments. Of course, as always, you can contact me via e-mail or social networks, which you can find on the CONTACT page. See you soon in new fashion adventures on the Mr.M blog!
With Love from Milan,
Mr.M
This post is sponsored by Giorgio Armani, Enfants Riches Déprimés, Briston and Santoni brands. This post is my personal and honest product review.
Hello Marko, what a beautifully composed story this turned out to be. I bought a pair of Santoni Carlos loafers last spring after reading one of your earlier reviews, and the leather has aged in the most beautiful way. Now I am seriously considering the Oly sneakers because the way you describe the brushed leather and the gum sole sounds like exactly what I need for late spring in London. The detail about the workshop in Corridonia training apprentices for years before they work independently is something I always come back to when I question whether a luxury price is… Read more »
Lieber Marko, eine wirklich faszinierende Geschichte über Enfants Riches Déprimés. Ich kannte den Namen nur vom Hörensagen, aber Henry Levys Philosophie der „isolating objects” hat mich nun wirklich neugierig gemacht. Eine Frage zur Lederhose: Wie fällt der Schnitt aus, eher zu lang oder eher passgenau am Bein? Ich frage, weil ich überlege, im Marais-Atelier in Paris vorbeizuschauen.
Ciao Marko, leggerti su Milano è sempre un piacere particolare. Vivo a Brera da oltre vent’anni e Piazza Duomo resta per me il luogo dove la città mostra la sua anima vera, soprattutto quando il marmo di Candoglia cambia colore nel pomeriggio. Hai colto perfettamente quel contrasto tra il gotico antico e il Quadrilatero della Moda che noi milanesi diamo troppo per scontato. Il tuo outfit ha quella misura che qui chiamiamo sprezzatura, niente urla ma tutto parla. Bellissima anche la scelta di Armani per un servizio fatto a un passo da Via Manzoni 31, è un omaggio sentito al… Read more »
Dear Marko, I read your blog regularly to find inspiration for gifts for my husband, who has been wearing Armani for decades and just recently moved toward a more relaxed style. The Briston Kennedy looks like exactly the kind of conversation piece he would love, especially with the lapis lazuli cabochon at twelve o’clock which is such a charming detail. May I ask whether the 36 millimetre case looks proportionate on a larger wrist, or would you suggest something else from the Streamliner range? I always trust your judgement on watches more than the official campaign photos. Thank you for… Read more »
Bonjour Marko, quel plaisir de voir un blogueur étranger parler de Briston avec tant de précision. Brice Jaunet est un personnage attachant et je l’ai croisé une fois rue de Poitou dans sa boutique du Marais, un endroit qui respire le bois, le cuir et cet esprit british que vous avez si bien décrit. La référence à la maison NewMan fondée par son grand-père Jacques en 1967 est un détail que beaucoup oublient, mais qui explique pourquoi cette famille a la création dans le sang. Le choix du Streamliner Kennedy avec le cabochon de lapis-lazuli est un coup de cœur… Read more »
Estimado Marko, me ha encantado leer sobre el taller de Santoni en Corridonia y los más de cuatrocientos artesanos que trabajan allí. Tengo unos Santoni desde hace casi diez años y la suela todavía aguanta los empedrados de Madrid sin queja. Mi pregunta es esta: ¿crees que el modelo Oly funciona también con un pantalón de franela gris, o lo recomendarías sólo para tonos tierra como en tu look milanés? Un cordial saludo desde el barrio de Salamanca.
Marko, this is one of the most thoughtful articles I have read on Enfants Riches Déprimés in a long time. The fact that ERD was the first fashion house to present a collection at Christie’s in Paris back in the 2018 pre-collection has always fascinated me, because it tells you everything about how Henry Levy positions his work somewhere between fashion and conceptual art. Then doing the spring 2025 collection at Sotheby’s in Paris was another statement of intent, almost a refusal to play by industry rules. I respect the man enormously for sticking to limited production at a moment… Read more »
Beste Marko, ik volg jouw blog al een tijdje en deze post over Milaan raakt precies de juiste snaar. De stille luxe waar je over schrijft, met de Armani kasjmier en de Santoni schoenen, is precies waar onze generatie naar terugkeert na jaren van logo-gekte. Wat ik vooral mooi vind, is hoe je de filosofie van elk merk uitlegt zonder te vervallen in marketingtaal. De passage over Andrea Santoni die nog steeds contact houdt met zijn meester-schoenmakers is precies waarom we deze huizen blijven steunen. Dank voor weer een prachtig artikel.
Greetings Marko, your earlier review of Armand Nicolet convinced me to buy one last summer and it has barely left my wrist since. The tortoiseshell acetate is genuinely something different and people always ask about it on the train into the office. Now seeing the Briston Kennedy Auto with the square case and the lapis cabochon makes me think Brice Jaunet is quietly building one of the most interesting independent watch brands in France. The price point around 915 euros is honestly remarkable for what you get in return. Already considering this as my second Briston, which I never thought… Read more »
Lieber Marko, der Vergleich des Candoglia-Marmors, der seine Farbe vom morgendlichen Rosa zum mittäglichen Weiß ändert, hat mich wirklich berührt. Ich war im letzten Herbst auf dem Dach des Doms und konnte nicht aufhören, jeden einzelnen Stein zu bewundern. Eine kurze Frage zur Pflege des Armani Kaschmir-Rollkragens: Verwendest du ein spezielles Wollshampoo aus Italien oder reicht ein gutes Mittel aus dem Fachhandel? Vielen Dank für diesen sorgfältig recherchierten Beitrag.
Caro Marko, ti scrivo da Ancona e leggere il tuo passaggio sui calzaturieri delle Marche mi ha riempito il cuore. Andrea Santoni iniziò a Corridonia nel 1975 con una piccola bottega e oggi quel territorio dà lavoro a centinaia di artigiani che hanno tramandato un sapere irripetibile. Mi piace molto come hai colto la filosofia del “tutto sotto un tetto”, perché è proprio quella la differenza tra un prodotto industriale e un’opera artigiana. Il modello Oly in scamosciato marrone scuro è una delle scelte più riuscite della casa negli ultimi anni. Complimenti per la sensibilità con cui racconti il nostro… Read more »
Marko, the opening paragraph where you describe standing in Piazza Duomo and feeling like the nineteen year old Marco again moved me more than I expected. I had a similar experience as a young man in Bologna in the late eighties, and Milan was always the city where I would escape on weekends to feel the buzz of the Quadrilatero. Reading this took me right back to those mornings of espresso and the smell of pressed wool in shop windows on Via Montenapoleone. Your point about Italians living their clothes rather than wearing them is something I have tried to… Read more »
Salut Marko, j’ai adoré ta présentation d’Henri Alexander Levy et son obsession pour le punk britannique de la fin des années soixante-dix. Le fait qu’il découvre les Sex Pistols et The Clash à onze ans dans un internat suisse a quelque chose de profondément romanesque, presque cinématographique. Cette tension entre l’éducation bourgeoise et la rage punk est exactement ce qui rend ERD si singulier. Combiner ce pantalon en cuir avec un col roulé Armani relève d’un vrai courage stylistique. Merci pour ce regard cultivé.
Hola Marko, quería agradecerte por tu post anterior sobre Armani en Roma, porque me animó a comprar un cuello alto de cachemir parecido al tuyo en la boutique de Via Sant’Andrea. La textura tejida a mano de la que hablas se nota nada más tocarla, no es una sensación que se transmita en las fotos. Ahora veo este artículo y entiendo aún mejor por qué Giorgio Armani trabajaba personalmente en cada colección hasta sus últimos días. La paleta de tonos tierra que has compuesto para Milán es realmente acertada. Estaré atento al próximo destino de tu gira con UN Tourism.
Marko, fantastic deep dive into the Streamliner Kennedy. I have always thought Miyota gets unfairly dismissed in watch forums, and the 9039 calibre with 24 jewels and 28,800 vibrations per hour is genuinely a strong movement. My question is, given that Briston introduced a Swiss-movement Streamliner Urban for the tenth anniversary in 2023, do you think the brand will gradually shift its whole catalogue toward Swiss calibres, or will it stay loyal to Miyota for the core models? I would hate to see the price point drift upward and lose what makes Briston so accessible. Thanks for another considered review.
Beste Marko, een vraag die ik al een tijdje wilde stellen. Ik heb een soortgelijke leren broek in donkerbruin en worstel met de bovenkant, want elk wit overhemd lijkt te scherp en elk zwart shirt te zwaar. Bevestig je mijn vermoeden dat een crèmekleurige of beige coltrui de juiste richting is, of zou je ook een chambray overhemd overwegen voor een lossere look? De combinatie met de Santoni in dezelfde tinten lijkt mij in elk geval de sleutel. Dank voor je hulp en groeten uit Haarlem.
Hello Marko, the macro shot of the lapis lazuli cabochon set into the Briston crown is the kind of detail I live for in watch photography. Most brands at this price would have used a coloured glass insert and called it a day, but a genuine lapis cabochon is a statement that the design team really cared. Combined with the double-layer dial and the cut-out Roman numerals at twelve, three, six and nine, the watch has more personality than pieces five times its price. I also appreciate that the dauphine hands carry Super-LumiNova C1, which is a practical touch for… Read more »
Lieber Marko, ich lese seit Jahren mit und schenke meinem Mann immer wieder Stücke nach deinen Empfehlungen. Die Uhr von Briston gefällt mir sehr und sie scheint mir auch für sein eher schmales Handgelenk gut geeignet zu sein. Würdest du das quadratische 36-mm-Gehäuse für jemanden mit klassischem Geschmack empfehlen, der bisher nur runde Uhren getragen hat? Vielen Dank für deinen Rat.
Marko, your reflection on the six centuries it took to build the Duomo deserves a wider audience. Starting in 1386 under Gian Galeazzo Visconti and continuing across generations, the cathedral is essentially a relay race of craftsmanship, which is exactly the same idea that runs through the Italian houses you wear. The thirty four thousand statues and one hundred and thirty five spires are details most tourists glance at without ever truly seeing. Standing under the gilded Madonnina in a cashmere Armani turtleneck is, in its own quiet way, a continuation of the same tradition. I find your insistence on… Read more »
Buongiorno Marko, abito a Milano da una vita e il tuo passaggio sull’Armani Hotel in Via Manzoni 31 mi ha fatto sorridere. Conoscere quel palazzo nello stile razionalista, comprato e trasformato da Giorgio Armani in un santuario della moda, è davvero un orgoglio per la nostra città. La citazione del Maestro sulla sua relazione con Milano che non smette mai di evolvere è una delle frasi più vere che abbia mai pronunciato. Ottima la scelta del beige cashmere come pezzo centrale del look, è il colore della casa per eccellenza. Grazie per aver onorato il nostro patrimonio con tanto rispetto.
Marko, the quote from Henry Levy about creating isolating objects rather than communal ones is something I have been thinking about for two days since I read this. It captures a tension at the heart of luxury that very few designers have the courage to articulate so plainly. In a world where every brand wants you to feel included, ERD says quite openly that it is making things for the few who understand. I am not sure I would wear leather trousers myself, but I respect the philosophy enormously. Thank you for treating a fashion piece as a piece of… Read more »
Cher Marko, votre article sur Briston m’a beaucoup touché car j’ai porté du NewMan toute ma jeunesse à Nantes, sans savoir alors que Jacques Jaunet en était le fondateur depuis 1967. Apprendre que son petit-fils Brice est passé par Cartier, Zenith, Baume & Mercier et Raymond Weil avant de lancer sa propre marque en 2013 donne tout son sens au sérieux que l’on retrouve dans chaque Streamliner. C’est une famille qui sait ce que veut dire transmettre. Le choix du cuir croco marron pour remplacer le bracelet noir d’origine est parfait pour un look terreux comme le vôtre. Bravo pour… Read more »
Querido Marko, mi mujer y yo acabamos de regresar de Florencia y aproveché para comprarme los Santoni Oly en marrón oscuro tras leerte durante años. Son sin duda las zapatillas más cómodas que he tenido, y la suela de goma color caramelo es exactamente como la describes. Mi consulta es sobre el mantenimiento del ante: ¿usas el cepillo en seco después de cada uso o sólo cuando hay manchas visibles? Quiero conservarlas el mayor tiempo posible. Mil gracias por tu trabajo siempre tan completo.
Hello Marko, the phrase “luxury with a soul, luxury that does not shout but whispers stories” is the best summary of where men’s fashion should be heading. After two decades of logo-driven consumption, our generation is finally asking the right questions about provenance, craftsmanship and longevity. You combine Italian and French houses with completely different philosophies and somehow make them speak the same quiet language. That is harder than it looks and most stylists never get there. A masterclass in editorial restraint.
Hallo Marko, na jouw eerdere artikel over de Briston Clubmaster heb ik dat uurwerk gekocht in de boutique aan de rue de Poitou tijdens een weekend in Parijs. De ervaring in die winkel klopte precies met wat je beschreef, hout, leer, messing en die typisch Britse rust. Nu ik de Streamliner Kennedy Auto bij jou zie, denk ik dat het tijd wordt voor een tweede Briston in mijn lade. De vierkante kast met de lapis lazuli cabochon spreekt mij echt aan. Dank voor de eerlijke en grondige reviews die je telkens schrijft.
Marko, your four rules for wearing leather trousers are the clearest guide I have read on the subject. The point about texture contrast between smooth leather and soft cashmere is something I had instinctively felt but never managed to put into words. May I ask whether you would recommend leather trousers for late spring and early summer evenings in southern Europe, or do they genuinely belong only to the cooler months? I have been hesitant because of the weight of the leather, but the way you describe the ERD lambskin moving with the body makes me reconsider. Excellent practical writing… Read more »
Lieber Marko, ich war vor zwei Jahren beruflich in der Region Marche und konnte mehrere Schuhmanufakturen besuchen. Was du über die Lehrlinge schreibst, die jahrelang bei den Meistern lernen, bevor sie selbständig arbeiten, deckt sich genau mit dem, was ich vor Ort gesehen habe. Diese Form der Wissensweitergabe von Hand zu Hand ist in unserer schnellen Welt fast verschwunden, und genau deshalb sind Schuhe wie der Santoni Oly so wertvoll. Es ist gut, dass Blogger wie du diesen kulturellen Hintergrund den Lesern näher bringen. Hochachtungsvoll aus München.
Marko, the geological detail about the pink and white marble from the Candoglia quarry, which has been dedicated exclusively to the cathedral since the fourteenth century, is the kind of fact I save and quote later. It tells you that the Duomo is not just a building but an entire ecosystem of stonework, transport routes and craftsmanship that has existed for more than six hundred years. Photographing your outfit against this living history is a thoughtful editorial choice rather than a mere backdrop. The way the brushed leather of the Santoni picks up the warm afternoon light off that same… Read more »
Caro Marko, sono una lettrice da diversi anni e questo pezzo su Milano mi ha emozionata in modo particolare. Vivo a due passi dal Duomo e ogni mattina passo davanti alla Madonnina dorata che, come dici tu, secondo tradizione deve restare il punto più alto della città. Il tuo accostamento tra l’eleganza misurata di Armani e lo spirito punk di Enfants Riches Déprimés racconta benissimo le due anime di questa città. Davvero pochi blogger sanno cogliere questa tensione senza forzare la mano. Continua così, ti seguiremo sempre con piacere.
Marko, the detail that ERD presented its spring 2025 collection at Sotheby’s in Paris is one of those pieces of fashion history that deserves to be remembered. Christie’s was already a bold move back in 2018, but Sotheby’s confirms that Henry Levy is essentially treating fashion as conceptual art at the very highest level. Ranging his references from Robert Motherwell to Cy Twombly to Antoni Tàpies, alongside Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, gives you a sense of the cultural width he is drawing from. No surprise that someone like Jared Leto or Travis Scott would gravitate toward this world. A… Read more »
Estimado Marko, tu look milanés es sin duda uno de los más equilibrados que recuerdo en tus últimos reportajes. La combinación del jersey de cuello vuelto de Armani con el pantalón de piel de ERD funciona porque ambos tienen alma propia y ninguno grita más que el otro. Me gustaría hacer una pregunta práctica: ¿crees que este pantalón funcionaría también con un cárdigan grueso de cachemir en tono camel, o pierde la verticalidad? Estoy buscando alternativas al cuello alto para climas más suaves como el de Sevilla. Un cordial saludo.
Hello Marko, I rarely comment but had to write today. My husband and I are heading to Milan in October for our anniversary and your article has essentially become our shopping itinerary. Would you say the Armani store on Via Manzoni or the Armani Casa flagship is the better stop for a first time visitor wanting to feel the philosophy of the house? I am also tempted to buy him a Briston Kennedy as an anniversary gift, after years of him wearing only Swiss watches. Thank you for the inspiration and the detailed map of the Quadrilatero.
Bonjour Marko, je suis horloger amateur depuis trente ans et votre article sur Briston tombe à pic. Pensez-vous que l’édition Streamliner Urban du dixième anniversaire en 2023, avec son mouvement suisse, vaut le supplément par rapport au Kennedy Auto en Miyota 9039 dont vous parlez ici? La différence de prix me semble considérable pour un gain technique parfois discutable. Merci d’avance pour votre avis éclairé.
Marko, following your European tour with UN Tourism has been a genuine pleasure, from Rome to Paris and now Milan. Each city you cover gives the reader not just an outfit but a piece of urban history and a craft lesson. I am especially looking forward to Vienna and Bratislava because both cities have a quiet menswear culture that is rarely written about in English. The fact that you choose independent names like Briston and ERD alongside Italian heritage houses rather than the obvious mega-brands sets your blog apart from anything else I read. Safe travels and please keep the… Read more »
Beste Marko, het is een waar genot om jouw verhalen te lezen op een rustige zondagochtend met koffie. De manier waarop je vier merken uit verschillende werelden samenbrengt en ze allemaal laat ademen, is precies wat moderne herenmode mist. De foto’s bij de Duomo zijn prachtig, vooral die met het zachte middaglicht op het Candoglia-marmer. Ik koop niet zelf herenkleding, maar lees jouw blog voor de schrijfkunst en de cultuur die je elke keer meeneemt. Hartelijke groet uit Utrecht.